Its as simple a system as it gets,,, find a wiring diagram and check it out. You can direct feed the blower motor with battery power and a ground to confirm it will run,,,, should pull a tad less than 20 amps feed direct battery power,,,, if more replace it,,, high amp draw will take the blower resistor out.
The resistor has 3 wires going to it,,, one is battery power,,, one is a ground,,, and the other is from the switch side. The one from the switch side can b checked with a volt meter,,, back probe that wire and work threw the blower settings,,, low will show 2/3V’s are so,,, the next set’n witll show 4/5v’s are so,,, next 6/8 volts are so till you see battery voltage on high,,, it you are around these numbers then every thang is good up stream of the resistor
I replace the resistor, blower motor and the pig tail at the resistor (have to warranty my work) with OEM parts. if the customer declins a blower motor replacment then theirs NO Warranty (his call not mine) The motor can spike (high amp draw on start up) and take out the resistor.
Its also possible something has the blower wheel jamed up,,, you release a tab and turn the motor counter clock wise (don't hold me to it) to remove the motor,,, worth a look.
Least thay don't require dash removal to replace these parts.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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