Air intrusion can be difficult to find, especially on the low psi or suction side of the fuel system. If you are lucky you might see signs of fuel leakage, not necessarily dripping fuel but oily residue on lines or fittings. Air molecules are smaller than diesel molecules so it's possible to have air intrusion without signs of a fuel leak.
If it still has the original fuel/water separator on the firewall beside the brake booster, those were very problematic. Most people bypassed those or replaced with an aftermarket unit. A 7.3 IDI filter head can be swapped, along with a filter that has the drain valve on the bottom.
Injector return lines (rubber lines between all injectors), return line caps/hats and o-rings. There is a "kit" you can buy that comes with rubber line, o-rings, caps/hats, and spring type hose clamps.
Fuel olives/seals. The hard fuel lines from the lift pump to the filter head, and the filter head to the Injector pump. A lot of people try to snug the line down tighter, this might help temporarily but the rubber seals on the hard lines need to be replaced.
Fuel heater fitting on top of the filter head. The single wire electrical connector goes through the top of the filter head and has an o-ring seal.
Rubber fuel line at the inlet of the lift pump, fuel switchover valve on the frame.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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