Had problem on my 99 GMC K2500 same engine at 210 thousand getting slow to start and finial no start at times or die momentary going down the highway. Plenty of people telling me what it was or wasn't. Acted like a fuel problem at first because it would take a notion to start sometimes after a squirt of either. Checked all connections and grounds, fuel pressure, 58 # was good enough for mine and still running at that. Finally got the right spark tester and started testing spark every time I cranked and found spark not good all the time and finally stopped firing. Searched on line and found a fellow that tells how to do some simple test from switch on. Test showed my crank sensor was the problem. Change my distributor cap and wires around 100,000 and it still has the same cap, coil and ECM. From what I could find the ones that eat distributor caps have something not right or a less than best cap. Checked my distributor and still okay. Never had a code show what the problem was. Also checked for security causing a no fire. After changing the crank sensor I had a GM mechanic check the time or make sure the computer and sensor worked together. They have a name for the procedure but can't remember it.
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Today's Featured Article - The Engine Rebuild Kit - by Curtis Von Fange. I always liked engine rebuild kits. They have all the replacement parts for overhauling an engine without going to the store to get gaskets, special measuring tools, or miscellaneous parts. They come neatly packaged, clean and tidy. But it's important not to let that packaging lull you into a false sense of security. The appearance of matching sleeves, pistons, rings, and bearings can cause frustration and agony if not properly measured and installed in a workshop environment. Following c
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