Dad's 2000 chevy no-start problem

CWL

Member
I'm working on dad's 2000 C3500 classic with the 5.7 (350) Vortec. Currently it won't fire at all. It was running fine with no DTCs or issues and just shut down while going down the highway. After getting to my shop here is what I know so far
55 PSI fuel pressure or better at the fuel rail even sitting over night. Removed number one spark plug and wire.
Grounded the plug and had a good strong blue spark while cranking the engine and the spark timing matched the rotation of the engine well. I put the plug back in and gave the intake a bit of starter fluid then tried to start the truck again. I didn't get so much as a pop. The fuel pressure stays strong, the spark plug had a light film of fuel on it and the starter turns strong. I'm at a bit of a loss and open to any ideas.
 

I forgot to add that while I had the plug out of # 1 cylinder I did a compression check. Not so much that I was worried about the motor, but to make sure nothing major happened to the internals of the engine. The reading was a bit over 180 PSI.
 
I had a 2000 HD2500 that did the same thing. Be driving along and everything would go dead. After 3 hours of checking I cleaned the ground post and replaced the clamp. Fired right up and ever had that issue again. Good Luck.
 
The distributor cap/rotor on those were troublesome. Same with the distributor gears. Also check the fuel pressure spec. I don't think 55psi is enough to open the poppet style injectors, but it should've ran on starting fluid....
 
Have you tried to pull the codes since it quit running?

That it has spark and won't fire on starting fluid, sounds like possibly the exhaust is blocked, or it is flooding. If flooding there should be strong gas smell at the exhaust.

Try pulling codes, you may have set some trying to get it running.

Try removing the front O2 sensor, see if it will crank.
 
See if you can find a fuel pressure spec., some of engines around that time frame needed about 65 lbs. of fuel pressure. My 97 was like that.
 
Get someone to help & check to see if the cat. conv. is stopped-up.
Have someone hold their hand by the tail pipe & crank the engine.
IF air/exhaust is getting thru, you'll feel it.. simple check..
 
No codes came up on my scanner. While cranking I was able to see the values in the live data screen changing as I was applying throttle for things like the O2, rpm, throttle position and other.
 
Timing chain jumped? Turn it over to TDC and then check which way the rotor is pointed. That or crank and cam sensors is my guess.
 

Strong blue spark don't mean chit!!! Its mandatory you use a GM HEI spark tester are equivalent its the LAW!!!...

If the coil has white dust on the side trash it and replace it with a new coil. AC Delco caps/rotors only from the dealer not a Denso that describes it as a OEM manufacture AC Delco ONLY!!!

So far you have gave great info your spark is still suspect till you eliminate it with a spark tester for the application... That holds true for all ignition systems GM is the worst of the bunch get a spark tester confirm proper spark life will be good...
 
Assuming fuel pump is okay.
Rotor, cap, coil and or coil wire or gear on distributor.

As Hobo said GM ONLY for cap and rotor.
 
Had problem on my 99 GMC K2500 same engine at 210 thousand getting slow to start and finial no start at times or die momentary going down the highway. Plenty of people telling me what it was or wasn't. Acted like a fuel problem at first because it would take a notion to start sometimes after a squirt of either. Checked all connections and grounds, fuel pressure, 58 # was good enough for mine and still running at that. Finally got the right spark tester and started testing spark every time I cranked and found spark not good all the time and finally stopped firing. Searched on line and found a fellow that tells how to do some simple test from switch on. Test showed my crank sensor was the problem. Change my distributor cap and wires around 100,000 and it still has the same cap, coil and ECM. From what I could find the ones that eat distributor caps have something not right or a less than best cap. Checked my distributor and still okay. Never had a code show what the problem was. Also checked for security causing a no fire. After changing the crank sensor I had a GM mechanic check the time or make sure the computer and sensor worked together. They have a name for the procedure but can't remember it.
 
My 1999 C3500 with a 454 and 180,000 miles, died going down the highway. Fired a little, when I tried to crank it. Crankshaft sensor went bad.
 
Fuel pressure seems low. I maybe wrong but it seems it should be 65 or 67 on those early vortecs. I had a 1996 silverado that refused to start with I think 60 lbs. Replaced the fuel pump and started and ran fine. The early vortecs are very fussy about proper fuel pressure.
 
(quoted from post at 07:22:35 12/22/17) Fuel pressure seems low. I maybe wrong but it seems it should be 65 or 67 on those early vortecs. I had a 1996 silverado that refused to start with I think 60 lbs. Replaced the fuel pump and started and ran fine. The early vortecs are very fussy about proper fuel pressure.

You are right 60/65 KOEO 55 is the cut off and suspect... Spark has still got to jump close to 3/4" Fuel pressure could be 165 its not gonna fire off if it will not jump a HEI spark test :(.... Spark is the easiest thing to eliminate why do folks make it so hard....

I understand 55 seames high but may not get'er done... BTDT...
 
Quick update. When I first turn the key one the fuel pressure jumps to above 60 psi. Then it settles back a bit. I had chance to look at it some more tonight after work. Weak spark at the plug wires with a tester but strong from the coil. When I pulled the distributor cap the center contact from the coil was junk. I'm going to replace the cap, rotor,wires,and plugs in the morning. I will update after that. Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
If you cheap out on the parts you will get to do it again soon.. OEM AC DELCO is the way to go :wink: I do like NAPA Beldon wires the good ones as they do offer a lower price set.

Local NAPA stocks Denso it list Denso as the OEM supplier I put a Denso cap on one like yours it did not last long enoufh to back it out the door.
 

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