I will answer the question as directly as possible. There is no reason to be nervous if things are correct. Rules: Make sure the real static timing (stopped) is set to TDC on #1. (a test light hooked to ground and the side distributor terminal, just lights up when the timing mark is on TDC. (no initial advance at all. (it is the correct setting for the tractor any way)
Have it out of gear and PTO out of gear and pulley out of gear.
Turn on the fuel at the tank (always off when not running!!!)
Set the choke (if at outside temp, not having been running)
Set the throttle at just above idle. Pull out the ignition switch. (very important)
Assure clear distance to people and animals, as well as buildings and machinery.
Insert the crank at 6 o"clock position and push it in to engage the crankshaft snout.
With your hands under the crank handle, and thumbs following your first fingers (not as you would a hammer) and your head and upper body a few inches from possible unexpected rotational contact, pull left and up on the handle briskly till you are at 12:00.
Do not go past 12:00.
If starts run to the choke to keep it running (usually just shut the choke off (push in)
If not running put the choke in just a little and crank again.
Some times it takes 4 or more cranks unless you already know how to set the controls to start on the first electric roll over. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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