Take off your dual so you can work on it, possibly the dual hub too. The other guys have given good advice so the only thing I can add is when you do get it back out where you want it and start tightening, tighten it real good, then bounce a sledge hammer off the top of the axle. Be careful it doesn't bounce up and hit you in the head, no kidding. Then tighten some more, bounce the sledge, tighten again until you're sure it's REAL tight. Otherwise it'll go walking again.
When you have a heavy narrow mounted implement on the back you're twisting on the inside wheels pretty good with all that weight on the back when you make that short turn to head back into the land. I've had the inside wheel against the cab on the 1086 chisel plowing. That's when I started rapping on the top of the axle when I tightened the wedges and it solved the problem. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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