Farmall 1566 duely wheel trouble

Tom Barto · Oct 27, 2012

Been out subsoiling and had right rear tire slide into the fender...so now its rubbing on the 3pt hitch and fender bolts...

Looks like the outside tire is where its supposed to be...not sure if there is an axle clamp that came loose or what...

Any ideas???I"m trying to upload a photo

Tom Barto · Oct 27, 2012

Here is another pic

cjd12000 · Oct 27, 2012

Clamp is loose cast hub might be worn have same problem on my 1086 it floated the whole time I chopped . Could not seem to get it tight with 3/4 inch impact and striking axle with sledge bought new wedge going to put it on one of these days. My local ih mechanical told me the hub could be so worn it might not fix it.

Tom Barto · Oct 27, 2012

I can stick my hand in there and feel the clamp is very loose - can move it with my fingers...

But I don't have any experience with this...whats the process? Can I roll the outside tire on 6x5 to lift that tire off the ground and then try to move it back into position? I think the outside clamp is the one I could feel loose (which woud...I guess...mean...I gotta take the outside one off...

I got fluid in em...they about 1800lbs each..

cjd12000 · Oct 27, 2012

When I moved mine out when i first bought it it did not have duals on it so i jacked it up took wedge out lowered it some pushed tire out so it leaned outward jacked back up that pulled the bottom out relowered pushed top of tire out till I got it where I wanted it could not shimmy it out with clamp loose by myself but could that way then tightened wedge banged on axle with sledge to set it tightened wedge more banged on axle tighten more than drove it around a little and repeated have had it 4 years and this summer was first time it gave me a problem

Tom Barto · Oct 27, 2012

I'm not sure I understand that...In that pic -those two hubs gotta touch one another and the clamp looks to be inside the inner hub - so when I move it into place - I will not be able to get at it...unless the outer tire is off.

I can't take the outer tire off because its full of fluid and my other tractor with a loader is also in the shop damn near being rebuilt...

Been a really unlucky year...

Is there a way to work that clamp without taking off the outter tire???

Just curious...

cjd12000 · Oct 27, 2012

So the bolt that hold the wedge is facing inward?

jon f mn · Oct 27, 2012

I wish some of the IH guys would post here, I don't know if I remember right it's been so long. I think what you have will be 2 wedges that a bolt goes through 1 and threads into the other. the wheeel hub it tapered and when the bolt is tightened it pulls the wedges together and holds the hub against the axle. All you need to do is get the wheel far enough out so you can get a wrench or socket on the bolt and tighten it. You have to get it real tight and work the wheel back and forth against the locked axle to work it tight. This is a problem on these IH tractors and one of the reasons you almost never see them with clamp on duals. After you get it tight drive it around a bit then redo it. Then check it every so often for a while to make sure it stays. If it keeps coming loos then the hub has been damaged and will need to be replaced.

showcrop · Oct 27, 2012

I don't know if yours are U-bolt clamps like on the big old Fords, but you have to keep after those. Can you rotate it so that the nuts are near the bottom and get at them from underneath? I have been told that you need to use a gear reduction wrench on them to get them tight enough. Myself I think that it is rust that makes them so tough to tighten. Since it is so loose now maybe you could get it out and clean it up and oil it so that you could tighten it better.

caterpillar guy · Oct 27, 2012

Yes it has a wedge that pulls up tight from the outside of the wheel. There is a toll for getting the wedge loose . It is basically a plate that goes on the inside next to the hub with 2 blots through the hub tighened up tight then turn the bolt holding the wedge to push the wedge away from the hub when it meets the plate it will push the outer side out. This loosens the wheel then after you set it where you want it take the plate out and retighten your wedge up.
I would look to see how far your wedges are going into the hub. They can be replaced for about a $100.00 to $150.00 I think we paid a bout a year ago. Or you can cut out some shims and tack them to the wedge and tighten up. We did that with one wheel and has been fine for over 2 years that way. We pull 12FT chisel plow with the disc behind it at the same time. In sod or wheat stubble. If you have questions you can call me @ 989-413-5684

wisbaker · Oct 27, 2012

I'd try to loosen it up and walk it out where you need it to be. No front loader? how about a chain fall off a beam/tree or an engine hoist? If you can't deal with the outside tire until your FEL comes back from major maintenance how about walking it back and getting a split retaining collar of the appropriate ID and bolt it in place, maybe with a spot of electric lock tight to get you through until you can take it down & do it right?

DeltaRed · Oct 27, 2012

You have the 'wedge lock' hub.Yes, you will have to remove the dual.You will need the tool,it can be made useing a pattern.I borrowed a tool from a neighbor,traced it on to a 3/4" platesteel.Drilled and cut to fit.Made two.one for each wheel of the 1256.You will also need a 7/8" 12 point socket-3/4 drive and a 4' cheater-to tighten.Beware,if the wheel was loose for awhile,it may have wallered-and ruined both wedges and wheel.I can talk you through it.Steve.(970)874-3973

fixerupper · Oct 27, 2012

Take off your dual so you can work on it, possibly the dual hub too. The other guys have given good advice so the only thing I can add is when you do get it back out where you want it and start tightening, tighten it real good, then bounce a sledge hammer off the top of the axle. Be careful it doesn't bounce up and hit you in the head, no kidding. Then tighten some more, bounce the sledge, tighten again until you're sure it's REAL tight. Otherwise it'll go walking again.

When you have a heavy narrow mounted implement on the back you're twisting on the inside wheels pretty good with all that weight on the back when you make that short turn to head back into the land. I've had the inside wheel against the cab on the 1086 chisel plowing. That's when I started rapping on the top of the axle when I tightened the wedges and it solved the problem. Jim

DeltaRed · Oct 27, 2012

Do NOT weld on the axle!!the heat can cause a fracture that will caues the axle to break.If you cant get it tight,dont run it!You will only end up ruining the wheel/wedges.

pete 23 · Oct 28, 2012

The 1566 had two bolts with a wedge on each end. The other tractors like a 1066 have a single bolt with wedge on each end. On the 15 you do not need the clamp on tool like some are talking about. The wheel has stops cast as part of the wheel. But, what you do need it enough room between dual hub and inner wheel to get a wrench in. If not you have to remove the dual hub. If it is so loose you can feel it is loose you may have one broken bolt, may not. You have to tighten those two bolts evenly and if you cannot rap the top of the axle with a large hammer you will need to retighten every round in the field until it stays tight. A 150 pound man on the end of a 4 foot pipe is 600 ft pounds of torque and is plenty. More may damage threads.

JDseller · Oct 28, 2012

It is a common issue on IH axles. The wedge system they used was not the best in the world. I started using Loctite on them 20 years ago. The type of Loctite that is for splines and sleeves. I never have had one move since then.

The problem is worse on the IH 1066 and smaller as they just have a single bolt. The 14 and 15 have two bolts.

Like the others have told you. The outer hub for the dual will have to come off so you can get to the inside one.

Tom Barto · Oct 28, 2012

Thanks allot for the help guys...I don't know what I'm gonna do...I am worried my FEL - even if I can get it back will not be able to lift that wheel - JD146 loader - maxes out at around 2000lbs...I'm guessing that wheel is awful close to that (fluid filled)...

But I'll have to figure out something - those fields aren't gonna rip themselves and the clock is ticking for getting it done...

I got a neighbor that might be able to help...

T

Owen Aaland · Oct 28, 2012

Oil the wedges and the bolts before you try to tighten them. Assembling them dry will usually end up with them coming loose again. By lubricating the wedges they will be drawn in tight enough with the proper torque that you will find they rarely move even if you do not re torque them.

caterpillar guy · Oct 28, 2012

Can you get a jack in behind the wheel and push it out that way? A long pipe will push it if it is loose. DO NOT POND on the end of the axle. You can break the casting in side that holds the axle bearing. Then will need a new rearend casting.

caterpillar guy · Oct 28, 2012

Can you get a jack in behind the wheel and push it out that way? A long pipe will push it if it is loose. DO NOT POUND on the end of the axle. You can break the casting in side that holds the axle bearing. Then will need a new rearend casting.

cjd12000 · Oct 28, 2012

I try to explain better how I moved mine without a loader . Get wedges to Sit down. Jack up so tire has no weight on it take wedges out lower so axle sits loose were wedges sat then push top of tire out the bottom will be on ground. When you Jack it back up it will pull bottom out since it wants to sit flat on axle then repeat till you get it where it needs to be. Does not solve the dual hub problem but works good to move it out

Tom Barto · Oct 28, 2012

Alright...Im reading my manual and got a bit irritated...on page 56 under NOTE" for dual rear wheels - it says the locking wedges and bolts on the inside tire should be positioned toward the tractor to allow access...

So really...whoever put them on last...is who messed me up right? Cause if they were positioned toward teh tractor, I could just reach reposition and then be back in business right?

Is it possible to remove the wedges and reposition so I'dont have to take those wheels off???

cjd12000 · Oct 28, 2012

Yep just drive on board with outside tire do inside wedge s face down take bolts out of wedges remove all four blocks that hub turn around and leave loose and try using come along and around dual and inside tire and try to draw it out. No guarantees bit it might work .I would put one on each side and try it but the wedges will go in hub from both sides the same

Owen Aaland · Oct 29, 2012

Unfortunately on the 15 series you can't remove the wedges from the wheel without first removing the wheel from the axle.

Farmall 1566 duely wheel trouble

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