You kind of have to feel your way through it don't you ? Hard to say being on the motor how much heat you can use if much at all to break any potentially seized bolts, if its just studs, as long as the threads are ok, can be chased, those just stay in place. The bolts if the heads are severely pitted, you know its bonded to the threads in the head or block, penetrating oil will mostly run off, now if'n you can turn the tractor on its side LOL !
I hate pondering this situation when you know you could deform the hex heads, easily snap one, only thing I learned with this is to take your time on each one, soon as you feel its going to round off, or really hard to turn, have to stop. Biggest thing I've found is to work both directions once it moves, little at a time.
I know what you fear, resorting to extractors, (hate those but they work when real careful or you had best stop before you snap one in place) welding a nut to the broken stud, without welding it to the block, counterclockwise drill bits, drilling out the center or even blowing out the center with a properly fitted cutting torch, me thinks its too much heat to try, so none of the above please LOL !!!
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: The Saga of Grandpa's Tractor - by The following saga is from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. Someone. The saga starts with the following message: Hey guys I have a decision to make. I know what you all will probably suggest and it will probably agree with me way down inside, but here it is. I have a picture blown up and framed in my "tractor room" of a Farmall M. It was my Grandpa's tractor, of which whom I never got to meet. He froze to death getting this tractor out of the barn to pull a truck out of the ditch before I was born. Anyway my dad and aunt had to sell it at the auction,
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