exhaust manifold bolts??

next week my stuff will be here to switch from bottom exhaust to a stack. Will have to flip the exhaust manifold over to do the modification and don't know how long it's been since the bolts were out. Flange nuts/washers are new because the muffler/pipe was just off a couple months ago. On the manifold bolts, should I run the engine til it's hot before trying them or just cold??? Have a good set of 6pt sockets. Don't know if it's doing any good, but I've hit them all with penetrating oil. 3rd time today after the motor was warm then heated it all up mulching. Just hate to break something and have a setback....

Thanks...

some times the studs break and some times they dont, Iffin you had a good torch you could of heated up the nuts before you put the socket on them

You kind of have to feel your way through it don't you ? Hard to say being on the motor how much heat you can use if much at all to break any potentially seized bolts, if its just studs, as long as the threads are ok, can be chased, those just stay in place. The bolts if the heads are severely pitted, you know its bonded to the threads in the head or block, penetrating oil will mostly run off, now if'n you can turn the tractor on its side LOL !

I hate pondering this situation when you know you could deform the hex heads, easily snap one, only thing I learned with this is to take your time on each one, soon as you feel its going to round off, or really hard to turn, have to stop. Biggest thing I've found is to work both directions once it moves, little at a time.

I know what you fear, resorting to extractors, (hate those but they work when real careful or you had best stop before you snap one in place) welding a nut to the broken stud, without welding it to the block, counterclockwise drill bits, drilling out the center or even blowing out the center with a properly fitted cutting torch, me thinks its too much heat to try, so none of the above please LOL !!!

We'll see what happens....

I usually smack the bolts or nuts with a hammer to jar them loose. Then like the other said back and forth a little at a time.

if you have a 3/8 impact gun, set it at low power or cut your air pressure back to 40 or 50 psi, and rattle the bolts back and forth while applying your favorite penetrating oil. it will help to get the oil to work and loosen the rust bond holding the studs. lotta guys like pb blaster, but, i prefer the really good sh#t

<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&amp;current=DSCF2209.jpg" target="_blank"> </a>
Untitled URL Link

This is the preferred procedure. Really works well.
Just one good hard smack so you don't flatten the bolt head.

I have had good luck with a pneumatic hammer. A few short blasts while you are really leaning into it does minimal damage to the bolt heads.

Dave2, if you are able to obtain the rust penatrant that Dodge sells from their parts department get it and use it. I have taken apart bolts that were so rusted and had never been apart since installed at the factory 50+ years ago. Or you could pm me your address and I will mail you a can.

Leonard

(quoted from post at 15:47:29 10/19/12) Dave2, if you are able to obtain the rust penatrant that Dodge sells from their parts department get it and use it. I have taken apart bolts that were so rusted and had never been apart since installed at the factory 50+ years ago. Or you could pm me your address and I will mail you a can.

Leonard

Click to expand...

Can you tell me the name of it? Or part# (??)... One of SWMBO's sons works at the chrysler dealer parts shop....

Penetrants work best with time. I try to give them 2-3 weeks to work. PB Blaster is my favorite, but there have been some tests that show they are all pretty similar. If you have a torch, heating nuts red hot usually works. Jarring helps too. I would definitely not use an easy-out. Too easy to break(maybe the name should be easy-break)and impossible to get out once broken without a lot of disassembly because they can't be drilled by hand. I've drilled out a lot of broken bolts and studs, then re-tapped the holes. You just need a good guide to keep your drill square and centered. Good luck with it.

I sucessfully got the manifold nuts off my Wis V4 by running it til hot, then putting beeswax on 'em. Did this several times before doing like others said. If you can't find beeswax candles search for Yankee Candles.

Also, if you do break the studs use centering punches to locate the center hole(s) before you take the manifold off.

Heat is your friend, you need an acetylene torch. Heat the nuts until they're cherry red and they'll come right off. Once the manifold is off, heat up the studs and they'll screw out easily. (Heating the head is a waste of time because you'll never get it hot enough to make a difference.)

Heat with propane torch, till they are just starting to get a bluish
hint of color, then put a bee's wax candle up to the nut, or the
threads. let the wax wick up into the joint, and let cool. Then
TIGHTEN, just a little. Then loosen, just a little. Back and forth,
wax on, wax off

Surprising to read all the solutions you were given, HOGWASH!!!Cut one side of the nut(either with elec. grinder or demel with cut offtool), open with a small chisel to spread the nut , voila. easy removal. re-die thread and install new nuts (anti sieze).Not a big deal. LOU.

Sounds good Lou.... They (threads I can see) don't "look" bad, just never know. He's giving me new nuts and washers with the gaskets and stuff. Maybe just not take chances and use my little nut buster??