My son and I built a real plowing machine based on a TW10 Ford w/cab. We started with a Western 7' PU blade and widened it out to 9.5 feet. We needed to reinforce the Western A frame by boxing the angle iron. Our tractor has 2 sets of remote hydraulics, so we use one circuit for lift/lower and the other for the turn cylinders on the A frame. However we found that we could damage the cylinders or A frame if we bumped a curb with the end of the blade. So we installed a pressure relief cushion valve connecting the 2 cylinder hoses together. Now if we bump something, the blade just turns a bit and the frame and hydraulics are not subject to huge pressure shocks. Both Western and Meyer electric motor units have this relief built into the pump unit.
In your design, keep the blade close to the tractor, but far enough so that on full turn it easily clears either front tire which might also be fully turned. If the blade is close, then the side push on the tractor from windrowing the snow is minimized.
On the back of the tractor, we carry a 3 pt 9' Kewanee blade that we have modified for hydraulic turn. It is a very heavy duty blade.
With both blades, we can back up to a garage or shed door, drop both blades and get a clear 9 ft path in a single pass. The tractor is run without tire fluid or chains. We find that radial tires give us the best grip, and Firestone radials work better than other brands.
I'll check to see if I have any pictures of the rig, but I do not know how to post them. We did built the mounting frame out of square tubing and angle iron, attaching to the tractor's mid mounting holes, and again forward of the front axle, dropping straight down. Our system is way bigger than you would use for your Massey, but the ideas and engineering will be similar.
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