Truck Snow plow on 2WD Tractor

I apologize for reusing the same pic over and over but this is the main use I have for my massey 65 here in suburbia. I have asked the missus to take a pic or two but due to weather, camera, and lighting this is about the only one I have.

Here is my project. I will be getting a 7 foot snow plow that was designed for use on a truck. I would like to mount this on my mid implement mounts behind my front axle. Has anyone done this? Seen pics? I don't mind inventing the wheel, but feel real foolish when I find someone has already done it. Reinventing the wheel is expensive.

No you are not crazy. Ford for many years made a blade with a fairly long A-frame and a cylinder upfront for lift, angle was manual, on the ones I have seen.

I'll bet by the end of the day, someone on here has one and will post a pic.

I adapted a 7 1/2 foot Western plow with pump to my Allis Chalmers WC narrow.

Rick

One of the plows I am looking at is exactly that. Manual angle with DC powered lift. The biggest challenge I can see is adapting the frame mounts to the implement mount. Rears are currently dry with iron and chains. Not sure if loading the mains will be necessary.

Aaron

Like this? The original frame held a street sweeper affair, someone before me found it easy to adapt a truck plow to it. The chains are going on as soon as I send this. Since there is no hitch in back, it is too front heavy. Your 65 with a plow might never need chains, but leave this back blade thing on there, you will need alot of weight once you finish your front plow mount. Good luck!

My dad built a frame to use a 7 or 8 foot Myers on the front of his Farmtrac/Escort/Ford/4610/60/555....

Lift and lower with remotes, manual angle. Built an A-frame that wraps the front of the tractor, and to support the upper end of a 3x8" cylinder.

It works OK till you get wet snow over 6" deep then it will throw around the front of the tractor when plowing to the side. A bigger tractor with more front end weight might be better.

When you have a real tractor like a Massey 65 with live pto and live hydraulics. You are not stuck with plow only solution as the Ford N series owners are.
Once you use a two stage three snow blower. You will wonder why people try to push snow.

Are you sure the blade isnt too tall you wont have any lift. Mount it on the front its easier to push snow that way as you wont be packing it with front wheels and there just isnt much clearence with a belley mount on that tractor.

I would rather have the Rear blade AND a Front blade on a Loader, so I could PILE the snow up..
Even the 3-Point Rear blade will not PILE snow very high and you can run out of room to put the snow.
I use a 7 Ft rear (3-Point) Blade on one tractor and have the JD "B" on Stand-by with the Loader and 7Ft blade, just for Piling the stuff UP high..

Ron..

Aaron I put this one on my TO 30 and it worked real well. I built a undercarrage that is pushed off the rear axel and the front is just hung off of the front of the tractor. HTH

Bob

Page 2 on the Fergusen Forum, titled "Snow Again" are pictures.

Never heard of one mounted behind the front tires - doesn't seem to have enough clearance underneath. Not sure if he still has it, but OLD had (I believe) a Massey-Harris with mid-mounted blade, but the front axle was swept far out in front, like a grader. Maybe search the Tractor Photos.
Jay

My son and I built a real plowing machine based on a TW10 Ford w/cab. We started with a Western 7' PU blade and widened it out to 9.5 feet. We needed to reinforce the Western A frame by boxing the angle iron. Our tractor has 2 sets of remote hydraulics, so we use one circuit for lift/lower and the other for the turn cylinders on the A frame. However we found that we could damage the cylinders or A frame if we bumped a curb with the end of the blade. So we installed a pressure relief cushion valve connecting the 2 cylinder hoses together. Now if we bump something, the blade just turns a bit and the frame and hydraulics are not subject to huge pressure shocks. Both Western and Meyer electric motor units have this relief built into the pump unit.

In your design, keep the blade close to the tractor, but far enough so that on full turn it easily clears either front tire which might also be fully turned. If the blade is close, then the side push on the tractor from windrowing the snow is minimized.

On the back of the tractor, we carry a 3 pt 9' Kewanee blade that we have modified for hydraulic turn. It is a very heavy duty blade.

With both blades, we can back up to a garage or shed door, drop both blades and get a clear 9 ft path in a single pass. The tractor is run without tire fluid or chains. We find that radial tires give us the best grip, and Firestone radials work better than other brands.

I'll check to see if I have any pictures of the rig, but I do not know how to post them. We did built the mounting frame out of square tubing and angle iron, attaching to the tractor's mid mounting holes, and again forward of the front axle, dropping straight down. Our system is way bigger than you would use for your Massey, but the ideas and engineering will be similar.

I'll look for the pictures tonight or tomorrow.

Paul in MN

Piling the snow up high is the worst thing to do here. The snow pile acts as a snow fence and worsens the drifting and thus snow accumulation.

Those bolts people are wondering about are only on 65, 165's and bigger, for loader frames and front cultivators I think. Plows are best to have a frame to the back axle too, just in case.
Mr Buick, I used to live across the St Lawrence from you. My Farmking 3pt 6 footer did well in the cold fine powders there. I took it with me.
Down here within an hour of the ocean, it is worthless. Maybe a light cold powder falls once a year, and not enough to use a blower, just scrape. When it wants to seriously snow? Like this halloween?... it falls like a milkshake, sometimes 2 feet deep in a few hours. Running full bore- slush comes out the shoot like a sausage stuffer. so now I plow first, then move the banks back with a loader when it clears up.... why do we live it this @#$% ?????

Years ago I pick up a blade made for a truck at an auction for around $10 and then got pictures from a guy here named Rod and build a set up for my Allis C. Works good other then the C is to small to handle it well. You could probably build some thing like this set up for you tractor

Think you"ll find the front mount will make it difficult to steer and control.
Plow will push the front end around as it wants, no matter what you try to do to steer the front wheels. A few times I"ve tried to plow in 2wd with my 4wd truck.... doesn"t work worth a hoot.

I do not want the blade underneath, but attach the mount behind the axle. I have mounts on the front support just behind the radiator. I also have a mount point underneath where the clutch inspection plate bolts to.

Aaron

When you have a real tractor like an MF65, especially with chains, a blade will work in almost all conditions where a snow blower won't and 9 times out of 10 do it a lot faster. If you're trying to clear really deep snow then a blower might be better. If you don't have a cab on the tractor with a snow blower is a pain as well as having to turn around because you have to go backwards. Snow blowers have their place but aren't the be-all-end all to clearing snow.

Here's mine MF 35 with no external Hydraulics.Pulled a plug under the seat and plumbed it off the internal Hyd pump I think I have more pictures somewhere. of the mounting system

I found the pictures, but don't know how to get them in this post. If you want them send me your E=mail address.

Hi Aaron,

We used to have a Freeman front loader on our 65. If you could find one, the two frames that mount to each side of the tractor may be a good fit for a frame for your plow. Ours mounted under the rear axle at the fender mount locations, and used two of the threaded holes up front by the tie rods. Then you could turn your fab skills loose to adapt the plow to the loader frame. You would have a solid push point at the rear axles then.

I would never talk someone into putting a loader on a 65 though, because of that thin bushing on the front end pivot point. But I guess as long as a person is aware of the weakness and keeps an eye on it, you could have a useable loader too.

Just thinking outloud here, trying to give you more ideas to either confuse or help you.

Don't like the idea of hanging the whole shabang off of those front holes though.

Aaron, a quick trip to the iron pile.....then some plywood.......wha-la!!! ohhh...rear tires are loaded with the evil calcuim chloride. the ole H aint pretty...but it moves snow!!



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(quoted from post at 13:11:50 12/17/11) Piling the snow up high is the worst thing to do here. The snow pile acts as a snow fence and worsens the drifting and thus snow accumulation.

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Thats why smart people pile the snow back away from the driveway or parking lot. Snow piles act like a snow fence and snow piles grow during the winter, thats a given. You have to keep that in mind when starting the pile in November or your screwed come late March.

I"m probably a little late to the game here, but here are some pictures of my setup. It is a 7.5" Meyers truck plow that I mounted on my tractors.

The first tractor is a Case DO, the plow frame is completely home made and the hydraulics are powered by a 6v hydraulic pump (also home made). I ran a hydraulic line with a ball valve between the turn cylinders to allow more adjustment than pins would allow. The rear tires are dry, but with chains and 2 sets of weights.

The second tractor is my Ford 4000SU. The plow frame is an adapted version of the factory frame. This tractor has live hydraulics and I was able to plumb in the turn cylinders (I"m very happy with this choice). The rear tires are loaded and have chains.

Good luck.

Because most snowblowers still require you to blade after them or else you get ice. Plus in lighter snow I can plow much faster