I am thinking the motor is only SLIGHTLY stuck.I am going to be VERY meticulous about getting it un stuck.
Glennster,I think it will cost more in parts (The parts I let get "picked" off.)to make it a complete tractor again?? I thought it was PRIME for an antique puller! I really just bought it for the spare internal stuff.
I do wanna get a carb and ignition for temporary to fire up the engine one time to acess engine.Would probably need complete rebuild to make it a good one?
It would take ANOTHER ,more complete,AFFORDABLE, salvage M (needs a 2 bolt starter)to get this thing running without breaking the bank! I have a complete lower bolster.About everyone is making Me "Pay what they weigh" at the bone yards.When metal prices are high,I can see why it is tempting to "torch" these up.
That is kinda strange.Around here,a decent,average running M averages about $1200.00 to $1500.00, but if you run it across the scrap mans scales,it will fetch you about 600.00 to 950.00 dollars(market is up and down) .OR if you part out a COMPLETE tractor for premium money on each part,you at least DOUBLE/TRIPPLE the original price you paid for a running tractor ????? With an M TA style grill ACTUALLY getting $400.00 + .It is no wonder guys are ripping them apart and selling the remains to the scrap yards. I know they all cant run. There has to be "donor" tractors to keep the "user" tractor running. Maybe its just the "circle of life"? :{
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let’s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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