Posted by ScottyHOMEy on March 12, 2009 at 12:47:25 from (70.105.228.156):
In Reply to: Sure enough! posted by eric skokan on March 12, 2009 at 12:09:19:
Bingo! Now we're cookin'.
I've never done it in the way Hugh described, but here's what I can think of in the way of being helpful.
For tools, stout long hooks for grabbing cotter pins and long needle-nose pliers (both straight and 45*) for putting them back will most certainly help.
First thing I'd do is unhook the return spring between your clutch pedal and the underside of your seat platform. If you need to completely remove the connecting rod at the rear adjustment to get the slack you need, that's fine too (You can do it by removing the rear nut.), but I'd suggest tying a long piece of twine to the rod just ahead of the forward nut and let it dangle out the rear hole so you can get the rod back, and tie the rear nut onto the end of it as an weight.
There should be two fairly large cotter pins just inside the top of the fork holding that upper pin/dowel in place. In my experience, they aren't usually spread too wide so you might be able to just pull them out with a stout hook, but they may require some minor bending with a long screwdriver or prybar to straighten them a little. I hadn't thought of trying to get at them through the starter hole but that might work or at least be helpful and get more light in there. Once those are out, you can drive the upper pin out from the hole on either side.
The bottom pin, at the front of the rod, should have a 1/8" cotter pin in it. With the rod free at the rear, you should be able to finagle it close enough to the hand hole to get at it. Then there's the matter of the pin, which will almost surely be a bear, with grooves worn into it from use that will make it a bustard to get out. Do what works for that. With the rod disconnected at the rear, you might be able to cant it enough to get it right into the handhole where you can get something onto it, even if just pliers, to press it through and get it out. At that point, the bearing carrier should be floating along the length of the driveshaft.
There may be some trick, or it may not require any trick at all, to slipping the fork down and out through the hole (hand hole or starter hole, who cares?!?!?)
Repair or replace as indicated.
As for reinstallation, I'd think reverse order, with the top pin going in second, before reconnecting the bottom. If it works better to reverse that order, so be it. Reconnecting the rod at the rear and the pedal return spring, in that order, would be the final steps in either case. Readjust the freeplay once everything is hooked back up and see how she goes.
And, yes. Verbal lubrication is acceptable, and often makes the difference in whether things go together or not. One of my more fun experiences was helping a preacher with the clutch on his M. The parts in that case were more readily accessible but still quite stubborn. I watched my tongue for a while but at some point something slipped out. It wasn't long before the preacher was offering "encouraging" words, too, though not quite as colorfully as I.
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