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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: 2606 won't start


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Posted by bc on September 21, 2011 at 22:14:57 from (71.158.223.75):

In Reply to: 2606 won't start posted by bc on September 21, 2011 at 12:25:43:

Thanks guys. I've got something to try now. I just had the thing running this summer which is what is throwing me. Plus I drove it to the present spot to unhook the hoe just a few days prior. I'll try to get to it tomorrow or Friday.

Key switch and distributor work ok as I do have spark and it fires and almost starts when I first try it and then it quits trying to fire/ignite gas in the cylinders and then basically cranks like it is dead and never tries to refire till I let it sit a while. My push button quit working about this time so I'm shorting across the starter solenoid until I pull the dash again as part of repair job. I had rewired the dash early this spring. I started it the last time without the push button but who knows. The spark looks dark blue and the coil is only about 3 or 4 years old.

Sparks plugs. Teddy may be on to something. They were all oily black with some buildup around the gap but I assume they have been that way for a while. I wire brushed them and regapped them to .030 as I forgot if the proper gap (.030 is for lawnmowers) was and I now see the IT manual says .023. Wire brushing them didn't get rid of the black oil. They are autolite 388 plugs in a c-263. Guess I'll go ahead and get new ones. Was going to go with new points and condenser as well.

The carb is thouroughly clean, soaked in carb cleaner, passages all blown out, cleaned out with bread wrapper wire, and the float makes the needle and seat work properly. I put new gas in it as I had left the tank valve open when I parked it and the few gallons in there leaked out through the carb. Which was another reason why I cleaned the carb because the needle didn't always seat.

I'll follow Jim's direction on checking the timing. I just need to drive it 50' and make a sharp turn to get it under the tree to remove the loader. That 12" wide loader frame doesn't give me any room to work on it. Bucket is on the ground and I have a chain under it so I could pull it a few feet away from the hoe where it is but I can't make the sharp turn to pull it under the tree that way.

History on the thing is I bought the fix or repair daily 3 or 4 years ago, whenever I first joined the board here. Had many issues with the hydraulics. However from day one, it always needed to be on full choke to run and had to stay on full choke a good half hour or it would die. I could run around in low just fine but couldn't use 2nd or 3rd and dump the clutch until it was fully warmed up. I had the usual rust in tank issues as well but it is clean now.

I've sprayed all around the manifold with ether and carb cleaner and never got a reaction for years. I tried it this summer again and finally got a slight rpm rise when spraying under the manifold just above the carb. Another funny thing happened this summer and that is it all of a sudden (sometimes) would start and run better without any choke. But that was a daily thing this summer on the use of the choke. I just need to pull the manifold and check the valves and other stuff. Maybe try some paint while I have it tore down.

Thanks for the help so far guys. I'd kinda reached the point of total frustration and you guys have re-energized me with some direction. I need a hot plug since it isn't used much, anything hotter than the autolite 388?


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