Well, here is my $.02 worth. Anytime I clean up a bore (sleeved or not) that is within .005 +/- of stock, I use new rings. Rings really need to seat and wear in. If you use old rings and a honed bore, you may or may not get a good seat and wear in. More times than not, you won't.
You are absolutely correct, this is a diesel, and those are NOT as forgiving as the gasser. This is not a shot at anyone, but these engines in gasser config were low RPM, relatively low compression. Yes Virginia, the absolute BEST way is to replace everything, BUT, you can get good results if you don't replace the pistons/sleeves when using a bit of common sense.
I have honed, ridge reamed, and re-ringed quite a few engines over the years (without replacing the pistons and wrist pins), and because I stayed within certain limits for clearances and wear, they all worked and worked well. Anytime you have to make up more than +/- .005 with rings, you will fail......or at least be disappointed with the results.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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