Any tips or tricks on using a ridge reamer?

sflem849 · Aug 24, 2011

I am ringing my WD-9 and I just picked up the reamer from AutoZone. It seems pretty easy, but I wanted to make sure there wern't any tricks to it.
Can I use it if reusing my sleeves?
It says to be sure it's centered. It has three jaws so it should center itself easily. Is there anything else to it?

WDfrmTN · Aug 24, 2011

Just make sure to go slow and take small increments in expanding the reamer. The first few rounds may be "jumpy" until it cuts a true circle.
Make sure and not undercut (take off too much), also.
I'd follow up with a tri-hone or "dingle ball" hone to restore the cross-hatch, or your rings will not break in and seat properly; if not she'll pump oil 'til the cow come home.

Janicholson · Aug 24, 2011

As it is tightened into the bore, be sure to noodle on it so it centers. Be sure to start with the jack screw almost all the way in, so it has full travel as it goes up and out of the top of the sleeve. Be sure it is sharp. Use a coolant lubricant like Tap Magic, or a mix of diesel and engine oil 50/50. to keep it happy.
Do not remove more than the deepest part of the top ring groove wear. Honing to remove the remaining lip is done with a sunnen straight hone or equal. If the old pistons are used they might need to be resized by knurling to be usable if the taper is more than .003" on the diameter. Jim

Tom Fleming · Aug 25, 2011

Everyone has pretty much covered it. Summary: get it centered and snug in the bore. take light cuts and lube as you go. Do NOT take out too much material.

Other than that, fairly simple process.

Allan in NE · Aug 25, 2011

A ridge reamer is used merely to disassemble a badly worn engine and is pretty much a no-brainer as far as it's operation goes.

Make sure the cutting blade us below the ridge, lock it to the cylinder bore (it is self aligning) and then turn the screw to cut the ridge on it's way up; it's pretty much all automatic. The blade has a guide and it will only cut the ridge; no way you can make it "overcut".

Now, I sure don't wanna sound like a broken record here, but if you have a ridge in that cylinder wall that is bad enough to require the use of a reamer (about .010"), you need new sleeves, rings and pistons/wrist pins anyway.

Cut the ridge, hone it and just throw in a set of rings and I guarantee you that engine will pump oil like Haliburton and rattle like a diesel.

Allan

sflem849 · Aug 25, 2011

...Cut the ridge, hone it and just throw in a set of rings and I guarantee you that engine will pump oil like Haliburton and rattle like a diesel.

Allan

It is a diesel. :lol: The problem is when it comes to WD-9s, it isn't just as easy as rebuilding the engine. First you need to play Where's Waldo on locating a set of pistons and sleeves. If you are lucky you can find a set of NOS stuff, but that's going to cost you more than the entire tractor is worth. Chances are you are probably going to be using better than yours used stuff. There is always paying to have pistons and sleeves custom made. That is even more than NOS stuff!

PO said that he wouldn't touch it. He said, I would never know that it was a little iffy inside if I had bought it running. I have to believe him on that one. Maybe I should just throw it back together without rings?

Tom Fleming · Aug 25, 2011

Well, here is my $.02 worth. Anytime I clean up a bore (sleeved or not) that is within .005 +/- of stock, I use new rings. Rings really need to seat and wear in. If you use old rings and a honed bore, you may or may not get a good seat and wear in. More times than not, you won't.

You are absolutely correct, this is a diesel, and those are NOT as forgiving as the gasser. This is not a shot at anyone, but these engines in gasser config were low RPM, relatively low compression. Yes Virginia, the absolute BEST way is to replace everything, BUT, you can get good results if you don't replace the pistons/sleeves when using a bit of common sense.

I have honed, ridge reamed, and re-ringed quite a few engines over the years (without replacing the pistons and wrist pins), and because I stayed within certain limits for clearances and wear, they all worked and worked well. Anytime you have to make up more than +/- .005 with rings, you will fail......or at least be disappointed with the results.

Allan in NE · Aug 25, 2011

Feel your pain,

I'm going thru the exact same dilemma on a 301 gasser.

Finding parts is just almost a darned near impossibility, this tired old gal has already been bored .010" and the last overhaul was one of those "band-aid" re-ring jobs.

Drinks oil by the gallon(s).

So, I figure I'll try and find another engine. Nope, that ain't a gonna fly either; no such thing.

Guess I'll hit the junkyards and try to find something else to squeeze in 'er. Maybe I'll get lucky and find a D312? :>)

Allan

sflem849 · Aug 25, 2011

That's kind of where I am. The parts are really tough or really $ to find. I think I will give it the band aid and see what happens. Supposedly it wouldn't even need that.
I haven't checked taper because I don't have the stuff I need to do it, but I did check rod bearing clearance and they were at the top end of acceptable. I think I am just going to run with it.
Someday I will find a set of reasonable pistons and sleeves and I can do the job right. Right now I just want something that is usable. After all, oil is cheap. :lol:

Allan in NE · Aug 25, 2011

Run your fingernail up across the 'ridge'. If you can't catch it with your nail, it's still probably less than .010".

Allan

Hill-Billy Rock-Star · Aug 25, 2011

Have you checked for a engine out of a combine? I know of a combine with a 301 gas engine just setting. But the engine is locked up.

Any tips or tricks on using a ridge reamer?

sflem849

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WDfrmTN

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Janicholson

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Tom Fleming

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Allan in NE

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sflem849

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Tom Fleming

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Allan in NE

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sflem849

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Allan in NE

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Hill-Billy Rock-Star

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