Might help to make sure we have our terminology straight.
There are bearings and there are bearing caps. The bearing caps mate up to the connecting rods (in the case of rod bearing) or to the crankcase (in the case of main bearings) and serve the purpose of holding the two halves of each bearing in place around the crankshaft.
Turning and polishing a crank will require new bearings of the appropriate interior diameter. Their outside diameter will the the same, so that the same bearing caps will hold them in place. (Another way to look at it is that if a crank has been turned down, the bearings will be thicker, the outer diameter being the same, the inner being smaller.)
So . . . if you actually have the original bearing caps for your block, simply have the shop that turned the crank order new bearings to match the diameter they turned it down to, and you're set to go.
If you do not have the original bearing caps, then it's a whole other matter. Any replacement caps you find that will bolt up will have to be line bored along with the block. What that does is machine things out so that the circles formed by the cap and block are on center (in a straight line) and of the correct diameter for your bearings. It's a critical step, and is why the original caps are numbered for each cylinder, and that the number goes to the side with the cam -- it's to keep those circles round and hold your bearings in a straight line.
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