Understood you said bolt was tight in my post to you. One to OWEN A. was just to see if there was something I didn't know about the gear retaining changes. Putting a picture of shaft. Splined end is the gear mount. Race for the needle bearing is next. Needle bearing is pictured beside the shaft. Next ball bearing at rear and splined coupling that joins shaft to the next one at rear. Snap ring in the picture holds the rear ball bearing OD from moving to the rear. center housing is machined to keep it from going forward. Shaft is machined for the rear bearing ID. That along with the coupling pined to shaft keeps the bearing in place on shaft. That ball bearing handles the forward and rearward thrust of the shaft. Shaft is free to move forward and back in the needle bearing. If for some reason shaft moves to the rear enough for the drive gear to contact the needle bearing assembly it won't do it any good. If the shaft indeed has moved to the rear, thats why I suspect the ball bearing or retaining ring. Also may want to make sure the pto gear is not installed backwords on the shaft. Don't know if it would clear the housing though, never tried one backwards. Check that the top shaft has not moved forward. If it did though, most likley oil would be leaking out of the clutch compartment when running.
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Today's Featured Article - An Old-Time Tractor Demonstration - by Kim Pratt. Sam was born in rural Kansas in 1926. His dad was a hard-working farmer and the children worked hard everyday to help ends meet. In the rural area he grew up in, the highlight of the week was Saturday when many people took a break from their work to go to town. It was on one such Saturday in the early 1940's when Sam was 16 years old that he ended up in Dennison, Kansas to watch a demonstration of a new tractor being put on by a local dealer. It was an Allis-Chalmers tractor dealership,
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