Sorry, Im not John M or Jim but until they arrive this may help,
The Ammeter has two terminals. Lets call one the SUPPLY SIDE (to Battery only) and the other the LOAD SIDE (to loads like lights PLUS BAT terminal on VR or Cutout relay).
Theres only one wire on the Suppy Side, that gets to the hot ungrounded battery post, often via a wire to where the big battery cable attaches to a starter switch or solenoid.
The ammeters other Load Side feeds hot battery voltage to lights and ignition PLUS wires to the BAT terminal on a Voltage Regulator or Cutout Relay, i.e. loads PLUS the gennys output (via the BAT terminal on VR or Relay) MUST WIRE TO THE SAME AMMETER TERMINAL AND NOTTTTTT THE ONE THAT WIRES TO THE BATTERY/STARTER.
If the ammeter is wired correct, if you turn on lights or ignition engine not running, it should swing over to - discharge. If it instead swings to + charge, the ammeter is backwards and needs the leads swapped but stilllllllll only one wire on the Supply side to battery/starter and 2 or more on the Load side, loads PLUS the BAT terminal on VR or Relay
LHBD that switch is for use with a Cutout Relay charging system where the gennys FLD post wires to the light switch to regulate Low versus High charge.........If you have instead a full fledged Voltage Regulator the light switch (3 position, lights on bright or dim) has nothing to do with charge regulation, the VR performs that function and the gennys FLD wires to the VR not the light switch
On a Cutout Relay system (gennys FLD wires to light switch) and LHBD switch, in L position she should charge a few amps at fast idle or full RPM..........In H position she should still charge but even higher then at L........If you go to B or D she should still charge, but not as high since the lights rob some of the current
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