At the back end of the lower radiator hose, on the casting that the hose fits onto, I can see the street 45 I talked about. From there down, I'm not sure what you have. That hose clamp suggests that there is a stub of pipe on the bottom end of the elbow that has a hose clamped onto it. Lord only knows what's at the bottom end of the hose that serves as a plug or drain, but that's where you need to open it to drain. It does appear to pass down through the bolster, so look underneath to see what's there. If you're not sure what it is, come back with a pic or a description, but that's your drain.
As for the fan pulley, it will be just as Gene described. The nut at the very back, the one that is in the slot on the back of the bracket, is designed to stay in place, with the sides of the slot keeping it from turning. What you need to get a wrench onto and turn is that hex surface that looks like a nut (it's not actually -- it's a part of the shaft that has been machined into a hex so you can get a wrench onto it) that is right behind the rear pulley and just in front of the bracket. If the real nut at the back is the right size and hasn't rounded off, turning the shaft will loosen things up. What will happen a lot of times, even if the nut is good, is that the threads on the rear end of the shaft are so rusted up that the nut will slip out of the slot and start turning with the shaft after it has loosened a little. If that happens, you'll need to wiggle a wrench onto the nut as best you can to hold it, which is what Gene was talking about. It's a lousy angle with not much clearance. The wrench won't go on straight and it can be a knuckle buster, but that's the reality of it. Gloves on both hands might reduce the skin taken off the knuckles.
As far as that plug wire. Two thoughts. It could use a new set. If you go that route, do it one wire ata time. Apart from that, if you know anybody that does automotive work, somebody ought to have the newer style tension clip (not a loop) that you can fit onto the end of the wire you have. It will fit over the tip of the plug rather than the tip threading down onto the loop. Might be your local auto parts would have one laying around.
As to the snapped off bolt, I assume it was holding the grille and not the hood. As to being "correct", that's a specialized bolt that is machined down to narrower neck than the thread for the last 1/8" or so immediately under the head. Because of that, the parts book doesn't say just what it is, but the picture in my feeble mind says it's a 3/8" NC, maybe 5/16" by about 3/4" long. As far as getting it out, you have the advantage of being able to get penetrating oil of some sort into both sides of it. While you're working on the coolant, take an occasional break to heat it a few times with a propane torch with liberal doses of PBBlaster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil or whatever penetrant in between. Drilling is probably your best first shot, but I'd suggest getting yourself to Sears or a good hardware and get a small set of left twist drill bits. If the heat and the lube get it loose, the left-hand torque (drill running in reverse!) of the bit will often bring it right out. If it doesn't you can get an EZ-out into it, and as long as you've driulled all the way through, you can even drive the EZ OUT back through if you should snap it off. (Not often you get that opportunity!)
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers Model G - by Staff. The first Allis-Chalmers Model G was produced in 1948 in Gasden, Alabama, and was designed for vegetable gardeners, small farms and landscape businesses. It is a small compact tractor that came with a complete line of implements especially tailored for its unique design. It featured a rear-mounted Continental N62 four-cylinder engine with a 2-3/8 x 3-1/2 inch bore and stroke. The rear-mounted engine provided traction for the rear wheels while at the same time gave the tractor operator a gre
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