I'll try to answer what I can in the order you asked.
1 - Shrug (sorry).
2 - Even if you can get hold of those nuts, you may not be able to get the screws out without messing up the slots in the screw heads. I don't remember how I removed mine, but my first guess would be PB Blaster for the threads and small vise grips for the nuts. Depending on how much time and patience you have, you may find it better to just sacrifice and replace the screws and nuts. At that point, anything goes -- vise grips or even a small pipe wrench on the screw heads, etc.
Fastenal (www.fastenal.com) calls those special nuts with the clips "cage nuts."
I use candle wax or a small amount of anti-seize compound when reinstalling the screws to avoid facing the same situation again later. (For my instrument panel screws, I use stainless steel -- but since you used the word "restoration," you may think that's blasphemy). ;-)
3 - As the other gents said, just about anywhere.
4 - On frozen grease zerks, I give the ball (or the place where the ball should be) a couple of moderate taps with a center punch. If that doesn't work, then a little heat from the propane torch and a couple more taps. If still no luck, then I replace the zerk. Some screw in, some press in. I don't have a manual handy, so I'm not sure which type yours is.
5 - (I'm assuming your brakes are identical or similar to those on a 350 Utility.)
It's important to keep the brakes as clean and dry as possible. Make sure the stationary braking surfaces (all four of the surfaces that the brake disks rub against, eight if you count both left and right brakes) are as clean as you can get them; use lacquer thinner, brake parts cleaner, etc. Make sure no lubricant is leaking along the shaft from the differential (if it is, replace the seal). Also, make sure no hydraulic fluid is leaking on top of the brake cover to seep down inside. Finally, make sure the drain hole on the bottom of the brake cover is unplugged.
I use a little non-hardening gasket goop on the seam between the TOP HALF ONLY of the brake cover and the differential housing. This seems to do a pretty good job of keeping out rain and hydraulic fluid.
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Today's Featured Article - The Rescue of a Fordson F - by Anthony West. Introduction I live in the UK and have for many years restored Fordson tractors (in the main model N's). I have also restored and shown model F's, E 27N's, Field Marshall Series 2, David Brown Cropmasters and the old rey Fergeson T 20. At one time I had seven restored examples which were shown and used in ploughing matches. As most restorers, I have a number of war stories I can relate on a range of topics that may help other like minded and interested people. Perhaps my first p
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