Sheet metal questions

I'm just getting started with some restoration on my 350 and I have came on several issues. 1. The metal script(Farmall,350) on the sides of the hood are held on with a little round barrel clip that is stuck into the sheet metal. Where can I get them? 2. The sheet metal (hood,Noise)are held on with screws which pass throught the first sheet and screw into a nut which is captured on the back side of the second sheet. I have several screw where the nut is turning and you can not get a wrench on them to hold them. Any suggestions on how to get this apart with out destroying the nut capturing device? I have been spraying it with WD40. After I get it out, what have your guys been doing to fix the issue?
3. Where can I get new sheet metal screws?
4. The grease verk that goes to the water pump will not take grease. Any suggestions?
5. This tractor was my dads and I can remember that dad did not get very good life out the brake pads. Are their goodbetterbest pads out their to be had? OR do you think something else is worn? I have not open this up yet.
Thanks in advance
Jerry Ray

for the barrel clips and fold over nuts, try your local autobody shop. we stock them at my shop, just bring the old ones with you to match em up. for the grease zerk, you may want to replace that one.

The disk brakes need maintenance, ie cleaning. Not much difference between the disks. Probably best to get them from CaseIH. There is only one kind.

You can use the nuts used on aircraft. They have a single or two rivets that hold them in place. Aircraft mainly use aluminum though which is easier drilling. Basically have your bolt hole and then drill rivet holes and use small pop rivets to attach the nut. Probably get some at your local airport aircraft maintenance shop or by bulk at Spruce Aircraft supply. Google Spruce and other aircraft nut places to see what they have. Then when you go flying your tractor around at 500 mph you know the hood won't blow off.

I suppose another thing you can do is give each nut a couple tacks with the wire welder while they are properly positioned.

For plain ol assortment of screws, Ace Hardware seems to have the most. Good luck

Hi, Jerry.

I'll try to answer what I can in the order you asked.

1 - Shrug (sorry).

2 - Even if you can get hold of those nuts, you may not be able to get the screws out without messing up the slots in the screw heads. I don't remember how I removed mine, but my first guess would be PB Blaster for the threads and small vise grips for the nuts. Depending on how much time and patience you have, you may find it better to just sacrifice and replace the screws and nuts. At that point, anything goes -- vise grips or even a small pipe wrench on the screw heads, etc.

Fastenal (www.fastenal.com) calls those special nuts with the clips "cage nuts."

I use candle wax or a small amount of anti-seize compound when reinstalling the screws to avoid facing the same situation again later. (For my instrument panel screws, I use stainless steel -- but since you used the word "restoration," you may think that's blasphemy). ;-)

3 - As the other gents said, just about anywhere.

4 - On frozen grease zerks, I give the ball (or the place where the ball should be) a couple of moderate taps with a center punch. If that doesn't work, then a little heat from the propane torch and a couple more taps. If still no luck, then I replace the zerk. Some screw in, some press in. I don't have a manual handy, so I'm not sure which type yours is.

5 - (I'm assuming your brakes are identical or similar to those on a 350 Utility.)

It's important to keep the brakes as clean and dry as possible. Make sure the stationary braking surfaces (all four of the surfaces that the brake disks rub against, eight if you count both left and right brakes) are as clean as you can get them; use lacquer thinner, brake parts cleaner, etc. Make sure no lubricant is leaking along the shaft from the differential (if it is, replace the seal). Also, make sure no hydraulic fluid is leaking on top of the brake cover to seep down inside. Finally, make sure the drain hole on the bottom of the brake cover is unplugged.

I use a little non-hardening gasket goop on the seam between the TOP HALF ONLY of the brake cover and the differential housing. This seems to do a pretty good job of keeping out rain and hydraulic fluid.

Mark W. in MI