I don't know what is considered right, rite, write, or wright by others, but I have dealt with a stuck engine before.
I pulled the head and found the cylinder walls were not very rusty at all. In fact, I was at a loss when I first peered into the block and seen nothing amiss. Once I had the engine free, I could see where the rings on #2 piston had rusted to the cylinder wall and locked the engine (JD 2 cylinder).
I ran a hone into the cylinder and cleaned it up, put the head back on, and it's still running thirteen years later.
Allow me to put in my two cents worth on dealing with stuck engines:
Folks will tell you to never pull a machine with a stuck engine and pop the clutch because you can 'break something'. Well....hehe....that something is already broke! And, if you don't get it free the easy way, you're going to be tearing it down regardless. The engine I mentioned above, was the same as welded together. I put a piece of 4x4 down the cylinder, atop the piston and whacked hell out of it with an eight pound sledge hammer....not once, but several times. OH THE HORRORS!, some might proclaim. That piston had to come free, one way, or another. I had pulled the tractor and hoped to free it.....no go. I levered on the crank and bumped the starter....no joy. I soaked with penetrants and that engine would still be stuck to this day with what good they did. But, once that piston broke loose, there was little damage to the cylinder wall. I knew the bottom end of the engine was fine....the engine was stuck, not worn out. So, maybe you can pull the head, get the engine freed, hone the cylinders lightly and be back in business. That beats laying out some major bucks and splitting the tractor for a complete overhaul......IF it isn't needed.
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