Super C engine froze

I have a Super C that has been setting in a machine shed since 1983 and the engine is froze. I pulled the plugs and used PB blaster, after 2 weeks still froze. I then filled with ATF and another 2 weeks it's still froze. Can't understand why it's stuck this tight when it was setting in a shed. Any ideas on what I should try next?

Remove the head to check the cycl walls they must be rusty and are probably junk. The engine is a wet sleeve engine so you can pull the sleeve and piston all at once. Replace with new and grind the crank get the head serviced and you will have a new engine. Theres a good reason its stuck and no magic fluid will make good cycl walls. Cant you see the walls thru the spark plug holes that will give a great indication of why its stuck. Bite the bullet and do it rite.

Pull the head and look at the sleeves to see how rusty they are. You probably need to drop the oil pan and remove one of the rod caps and use a piece of 2X2 oak and a big hammer and drive the piston out. The sleeves are not pressed in and may come with the piston. Use a torch then to heat the sleeve to remove the piston. You probably need to tear the engine down completely
and have the crankshaft measured for wear and have the block cleaned. New sleeve kits are available and your local machine shop can supply the correct new bearings. Good time to look at the clutch too. It would be easier to work on the engine by splitting the tractor. I had to do this on a Farmall A back in 1975. Hal

I don't know what is considered right, rite, write, or wright by others, but I have dealt with a stuck engine before.

I pulled the head and found the cylinder walls were not very rusty at all. In fact, I was at a loss when I first peered into the block and seen nothing amiss. Once I had the engine free, I could see where the rings on #2 piston had rusted to the cylinder wall and locked the engine (JD 2 cylinder).

I ran a hone into the cylinder and cleaned it up, put the head back on, and it's still running thirteen years later.

Allow me to put in my two cents worth on dealing with stuck engines:

Folks will tell you to never pull a machine with a stuck engine and pop the clutch because you can 'break something'. Well....hehe....that something is already broke! And, if you don't get it free the easy way, you're going to be tearing it down regardless. The engine I mentioned above, was the same as welded together. I put a piece of 4x4 down the cylinder, atop the piston and whacked hell out of it with an eight pound sledge hammer....not once, but several times. OH THE HORRORS!, some might proclaim. That piston had to come free, one way, or another. I had pulled the tractor and hoped to free it.....no go. I levered on the crank and bumped the starter....no joy. I soaked with penetrants and that engine would still be stuck to this day with what good they did. But, once that piston broke loose, there was little damage to the cylinder wall. I knew the bottom end of the engine was fine....the engine was stuck, not worn out. So, maybe you can pull the head, get the engine freed, hone the cylinders lightly and be back in business. That beats laying out some major bucks and splitting the tractor for a complete overhaul......IF it isn't needed.

You just got luckly on this one. Most of the time the sleeve is to pitted to hone out. I do agree with you on pulling and poping the clutch. Not a good idea. Something is going to give and it won't be the piston.

Pull the valve cover and see if you have a stuck valve or two. That will lock your engine up just as tight as stuck pistons. The valves in these tractors will stick from sitting now and then. Just bump the valve stem with a hammer lightly and make sure they all will recoil. You can tell right away if 1 or more are stuck.

Do not ever pull a tractor with a stuck engine and pop the clutch. Especially a SC. Rods will NOT stand it. What may have been a simple overhaul can become one needing new connecting rods. I know I done it and bent 2 rods on a 140 so bad I they would not even come off the crank until I removed it. Have also fixed 3 or 4 for other folks who tried popping the clutch to free their SA, and SC's up.

Not sure how others feel but I made up hydraulic hoses and adapters to hook up to a good tractor with hydraulic remotes. You need to remove rocker arms so all valves are shut all the time. (This good time to double check if valves are working.) Take out all spark plugs. Plumb the two mated cylinders (1&4 or 2&3 on Super C) together on one side of hyrdarulic remote and other pair on other side. This allows you to work engine back and forth. Also you will get lubrication from hydraulic oil. You get an even push on top of your piston and the force is greatly increased due to the surface are of the piston. Once it is free, crank the engine several times with plugs out to allow oil to blow out. Used this method on at least 10 engines. Little messey, but it works for me.

stuck valves DO NOT lock up an engine like stuck pistons. you are still able to turn it and will feel the hard spot when cranking it, and if you continue to turn it over it will bend the push rods or break the rocker if the valve is in the closed position. i have seen most engines seise from being shedded due to the condensation than ones that just sat out side.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'll let you know how it comes out. I really appreciate all you help.

Wanna bet? Seen it 3 or 4 times. My c sat for 6 years while A was in the Army. when I came home it was stuck tighter then dicks hatband. Had 3 stuck valves and it certainly locked the engine up tight. Also worked on 3 or 4 for other fellers with the same problem.