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Studs: to remove or not to remove.....


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Posted by spiffy1 on December 10, 2008 at 21:24:30 from (70.41.137.72):

Expecting the rest of the engine parts for that 22-36 to show up soon, so getting the rest tore down and not quite sure the best option on a couple items:

I thought I was going to have the block "boiled out" but may not take it in to the machine shop. In this case, am I just wasting my time to pull the head studs or is not doing so a leak or faulty torqe waiting to happen? Of couse it would be easier to clean if I do take them out; also, I don't see any I'd question, but may catch something I don't see now.

If I do get it boiled are there any surfaces I should give special attention to on re-assembly [cam-shaft comes to mind for one; any special lubrication? Any specs that would throw a red flag on the fit or the lobes? It will see less hours yearly than I originally thought but still will certainly be threshing and plowing rather than just parades].

Does anyone know the torque values and order? I'm guessing around 90ftlb taken in 4 iterations from inside to outside should be fine, but only a wild guess. I have the single layer head gasket rather than the metal sandwiched style. Figure I'll copper coat both sides, back off the last 10lb and bring it back up a day latter; and a final check after getting it to temp.

The machine shop took .015 to bring the head flat. In retrospect perhaps I should have told them not to mill it, but I think these had plenty of room for the sleeves? Any concern there? They took .010 off the manifold side too; #1 on the manifold itself looks rather pitted, but worried about clearance to the block if I have that milled - I don't relish the idea of removing material from that manifold anyway, they're getting a bit hard to find: I'm thinking copper coat paste there - is that going to hold up?

Thanks! I'll have to post some more pictures soon, but still have to sort through them.


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