Studs: to remove or not to remove.....

Expecting the rest of the engine parts for that 22-36 to show up soon, so getting the rest tore down and not quite sure the best option on a couple items:

I thought I was going to have the block "boiled out" but may not take it in to the machine shop. In this case, am I just wasting my time to pull the head studs or is not doing so a leak or faulty torqe waiting to happen? Of couse it would be easier to clean if I do take them out; also, I don't see any I'd question, but may catch something I don't see now.

If I do get it boiled are there any surfaces I should give special attention to on re-assembly [cam-shaft comes to mind for one; any special lubrication? Any specs that would throw a red flag on the fit or the lobes? It will see less hours yearly than I originally thought but still will certainly be threshing and plowing rather than just parades].

Does anyone know the torque values and order? I'm guessing around 90ftlb taken in 4 iterations from inside to outside should be fine, but only a wild guess. I have the single layer head gasket rather than the metal sandwiched style. Figure I'll copper coat both sides, back off the last 10lb and bring it back up a day latter; and a final check after getting it to temp.

The machine shop took .015 to bring the head flat. In retrospect perhaps I should have told them not to mill it, but I think these had plenty of room for the sleeves? Any concern there? They took .010 off the manifold side too; #1 on the manifold itself looks rather pitted, but worried about clearance to the block if I have that milled - I don't relish the idea of removing material from that manifold anyway, they're getting a bit hard to find: I'm thinking copper coat paste there - is that going to hold up?

Thanks! I'll have to post some more pictures soon, but still have to sort through them.

that amount they milled the head is perfectly normal.they only took off material to get it flat again.even .025-.030 would not hurt anything.if the manifold is warped you will need that shaved to. thats the way to go. and if your exhaust is leaking it only gets worst not better.you need asbestos gskts here.could maybe use some muffler cement here also. and for the head gskt.you say single layer? how thin is it ? you may need to shave the head more yet. that original gskt. must be at least .025 i am just not sure what you mean by single layer. my self i would leave the studs alone, you could risk breaking some.just run a thread chaser over them and make sure they are clean and oiled. also by boiling the cam brgs need replaceing, but should be checked any how.there is grease for engine assembly, i use stp oil additive mixed with a little oil, and it stays in the brgs.

I like using lubri-plate to coat the rods. Ask your machine shop about using this. Hal

Spiffy,Leave the bolts alone,As far as the torque look on the Internet under torque values,Its probably 90-100 lbs.When these tractors were made they never used a torque wrench,When re-torquing there's always a couple bolts you cant get a torque ratchet into.After doing this a few times you get the feel for tightness.

jimmy

(reply to post at 01:12:41 12/11/08 )

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The head gasket looks to be about standard thickness, but I've never before used anything but the ones with the metal layers on each side [and that's what came out of this tractor too].

Somehow just getting paranoid on the head; I knew they'd likely take .01-.020 to bring it flat, but while pulling the sleeves I got to thinking I may have underestimated the clearance needed. Especially if that head gasket is say .020 thinner than the metal sided ones. Yeah, I know I'm likely just paranoid.

The manifold on the other hand sits quite close to the block (589-D), with .010 or so already off the head; I may have to be creative here; maybe I could have it milled, and use the gasket for a pattern on a couple pieces of shim stock to put on each side. It might require a couple welds on hairline cracks (still debating and plan to have a welding shop advise whether they're better left alone or welded) so the shop may have some advice there, but if someone here does too all the better!

(quoted from post at 07:27:22 12/11/08) I like using lubri-plate to coat the rods. Ask your machine shop about using this. Hal

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That conjurs both waterpump and greasegun grease for me; is there a specific number?

On these splash-dipper fed critters, I'm paranoid [yeah that word again ] about plugging the channels with grease, so a good coating off 30wt is all I've used before.

I have to double check the fit, but this is getting used rods from a parts tractor [2&3 were scored enough to need babbit work for sure, so when Alderson noted having a whole set it seemed to make more sense], so I'm all ears on the best lube to let them wear in.

Thanks! I did a search earlier, and a quick one again and don't see any published for this; probably just missing it, but my books don't note it either. As you noted, they probably didn't use a torque wrench at the factory so had no reason to publish a spec.

Its been a few years, but, IIRC, the last one I had off was a Regular; I think that thing was factory [or completely wore out the second time over], but when breaking them loose I brought a few back to just over their original position and I think I found a pretty wide variety: maybe less than 80 and up to 100 - not that it really tells much after 70 years.

Use Lubriplate assembly lube. Prelubricating parts when assembling engines is what it is designed for. It is stiff enough to stay in place during assembly but the oil will reliably wash it away.