SHORT ANSWER YES that means you OUGHT to have a 6 volt coil NOT A 12 but I cant say sittin here what you actually have?????????
1) If theres a fuse between the IGN switches IGN output and the Ballast Resistor (that white ceramic/porcelain 2 terminal box between ign and coil) it obviously has to be good n working and continuous (not blown)..... the current draw is around 4 amps so a 10 to 15 amp fuze (depends on wire size used) would be fine
2) If its a 12 volt tractor and uses that in line series voltage dropping (12 to 6) ballast then YOU NEED A 6 VOLT COIL NOT A 12. Or else discard the ballast and use a full true 12 volt (some lay persons call internally ballasted) coil n be done with it. Its input wires to the switch and output to the distributor. NO BALLAST NEEDED
3) If the coil is bad as you claim, Id buy a new full true 12 volt coil and toss the old ballast.
4) Coil testing: This was already posted in my Troubleshooting Procedure...... If you use an ohmmeter the coils primary resistance as measured between its lil + and - terminals should be around 1.5 ohms for a 6 volt or 3 ohms for a 12 volt.... IF ITS AN OPEN CIRCUIT (near infinity ohms) ITS BADDDDDDDD The HV secondary should be like 5k to 10 k ohms and if its open its badddddddd. HOWEVER even if it passes both tests it can still be bad cuz it breaks down at High Voltage and/or temperature. Thsi test only shows if its definitely baddddddddddd not if its totally good.....
5) If you ran my troubleshooting procedure below it shows how to tell if non firing is a coil etc or a distributor cap n rotor problem so I will take you at your word the coil is bad. Remember as posted below a volt meter or test lamp on the coils output (to distributor) terminal usually reads zero cuz if the points are good n working n closed that point gets effectively grounded out.
Since you determined the coil is bad you just as well get a new 12 volt n go for it although its more often a points or condensor or cap or rotor problem etc before its the coil
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