Posted by Tom Fleming on October 07, 2008 at 15:22:22 from (209.195.155.84):
In Reply to: first oil change posted by 7lazy77 on October 06, 2008 at 20:40:34:
Wow!!! This post took off. Good stuff here.
7Lazy77, to answer your question, yes, I actually go over things like taking the valve cover off, checking the valve lash (clearance), and the like. If you have worn valve guides, you can try the valve stem boots, and they will help, but the down side of them is that they do reduce the oil flowing to the valve stems. Valve stems DO need oil for lube, otherwise they will seize. With that said, when they are worn, too much oil gets into the valve guide/stem clearance, and ends up in the combustion chamber, producing smoke, and carbon deposits on your valves......ultimately resulting in either sticky valves, or valve failure altogether. Once again, IMHO (in my humble opinion). A little oil past slightly worn guides is NOT the end of the world. severely worn guides should be replaced.
As far as the difference between detergent oil, and non-detergent oil, both have uses, and specific applications. Non-detergent oils should be used for things such as hydraulic systems, and non-combustion lubrication. the detergent agents in oil, actually foam a bit, and the oil contains air bubbles. Air bubbles are NOT something you want in a hydraulic system. Micro-bubbles in hydraulic oil compress, and give "spongy" response in key applications. While not the end of the world, certainly not a desirable situation. Air compressors are another application of non-detergent oil. Nuff said here. If it burns gas, diesel, or LPG, etc, you should use SAE HD oil. Brand choice is like debating religion.....don't go there. I would venture to say that if you change your oil regularly, and it is SAE HD certified, there are few bad oils out there. NOT changing oil, and using a high-end brand will damage an engine. regular oil changes are the key, not so much whether or not your brand of oil shows up on the side of a race car at the Daytona 500......
And yes, it certainly can be used for chain saw lube. I prefer oil specifically made for chain saw lubrication, as it has a "sticking" agent in it (usually parrafin) that makes it stick to the chain better. Buy a quart of chain lube oil, and take the lid off. dip you finger in, and pull it away. Even at summer temps, it will string out like "pulled" bubble gum. Sticky stuff that binds to chains better.
Multi-vis is fine. I was raised on HD-10 in the winter, and HD-30 in the summer, and since that usually coincides with the time for oil change for my usage pattern anyway, so I never switched over. However, if the time ever comes that I can only buy multi-vis, I will not be afraid to use it.
A bit long winded, but I think I covered everything. and my standard disclaimer: IMHO
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