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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

300U 12v Conversion Done!!


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Posted by JayWalt on March 02, 2007 at 19:58:59 from (70.226.7.125):

Well guys, I got it done. I used a GM 4 wire alternator. 1 main output, one field input, and one turn on input, and a output for the gauge package. This came off of my 1990 buick skylark. The car was total'd about 3 years ago, breaking the alternaotr mount. I returned it for a new one since it has a lifetime warranty. Now if this one every fails, I just return it and get a new one!!

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I made the mount myself. The original genny mount couldnt be used, because it bumped the pivot point too far out and would cause interference with the hood. I could have drilled a hole halfway through the mount and make the pivot there, but one of my promises to myself is to not alter original parts if I dont have to. In doing this, it keeps all part in original condition in case someone would ever need them, or want to restore the tractor. I made the top slider stepped to mount the alternator. My main pivot mount is stout as can be, and I feel it is more then adequate. It was a real pain lining it up tho, heat from welding can warp metal just enough to tick ya off!! =) If I had a wire welder I would have stitch welded it, but doing that with a stick welder is nearly impossible.

Now, for the coil, I looked through the 7 my dad had laying around, and the best canditidate connection wise was a nissan coil from an old pickup. enough said. The solenoid, I wanted to address that before it became a problem. I got a ford one from advanced auto. It was a pretty close fit, but turns out not quite good enough without some modification. First, I had to flip it 180, or else the power connector on the starter would hit the frame of the solenoid. So because of that, I had to make a longer copper flat piece to bridge power from the solenoid to the starter.

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Now there is about 1" of room between the steering draglink ball end and the solenoid's "I" connector. The pic isnt very accurate from the angle. I dont see that being a problem, If I have that main cast piece break off fromt he steering box, it could hit, but then I got bigger problems then a $13 solenoid.

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I removed the regulator and bridged the few connections I needed to.

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There is a fusible link between the alternator and solenoid battery term. I also used a 1n5406 between the coil's power connection and the alterntors field and turn on terminals.

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The system works great!! now for a new battery for my car, car's old battery into truck, truck battery into tractor =) Bad thing is the car and truck are side post, so I dunno if I'll get new cables or just buy a new battery soley for the tracor, or buy them stupid side to top adapters, havent decided, and for now its got a very underpowered half dead riding lawnmower battery in it. I have a 300AH battery rack in the garage I just jumper from to start it.

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The maint mount from below

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BTW, the hood does fit, the alternator has proper output voltage at engine idle speed. One thing I had to do was split a pulley because ALL of the alternator pulleys I had (about 13 of them for v belts) wouldnt accomadate my 1/2" spliceable belt. This also made the pulley smaller in diamter too =) (forgot who suggestd it on here, but thanks, nobody else had pulleys that would fit the alternator and my belt, not even the alternator/starter rebuild shop). I hacksawed it in half, then used a dremel tungsten carbide bit in the drill press to flatten out the cut edges and sandwiched a washer between them. The alternator shaft was barely long enough to get 4 turns of the nut on, so I used some loctite on the nut for added security.

Comments are appreciated...


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