Am sure you already know this but oil technology has greatly evolved since your manual was written. The additive package is much better in multi-viscoity oils. Engines that run their entire life on single viscosity oil (i.e. SAE 30) will have much more carbon in the ring pack area of the piston. This carbon is very hard and will contribute to wear (over a long period of time) of the piston rings, piston and liner. Multi-viscosity oils also contribute to easier starting in cold temperatures. I would recommend 10W30 or 10W40 if you operate at high load factors for extended periods of time at temperatures over 80 deg or so. It is not a big deal either way.
The only exception is the first fill of oil after a rebuild. All "break in" oil has a limited additive package allowing the rings to seat (or wear a little). Some engine companies recommend "break in" oil while others don't.
I would not use synthetic oil as a first fill after a rebuild as it will make it even more difficult for rings to seat due to superior lubricating qualities. It is up you but I don't think synthetic oil is worth the extra money for a vintage tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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