First we make sure the neck is sized properly at the area where it mates to the body. Then we hold the two together and mark the "V" shaped area that is to be removed from the body. Then using a sharp knife (Exacto or similar) small woodchisel, small rasps and sandpaper just keep working it in small increments and measuring often until everything is in alignment. Our plan tells how deep the notch should be, which if I remember correctly is about 1/8 inch. We have the fingerboard sized and placed on the neck prior to this and it becomes a very valuable aid in correctly positioning the neck. This also provides a way to measure fingerboard height off the body at the bridge end of the FB. We glue the fingerboard in just 2 or 3 small places for this so that it can be easily removed later when we do the finishing work.
We have found the same contradictory problem with some dimensions given in books. We use books from H. S. Wake, H. E. Brown and Henry A. Strobel. I like the Strobel books the best.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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