Posted by 135 Fan on February 04, 2011 at 22:09:58 from (68.149.56.30):
In Reply to: broke my loader. posted by 504 on February 04, 2011 at 18:59:48:
I assume you mean the pin mount mount broke off the end of the cylinder rod? Did the cylinder rods bend at all? Nothing too special to weld them as long as you know what you're doing. It's best to take the cylinders apart but can still be done with the cylinders together. You have to have the rod extended all the way and wrap something like an old welding glove or other piece of leather or non flammable material around the rod to protect it from weld spatter. First look and see if it broke right at the factory weld. That will give you an idea of how it was welded originally. It may not have been the best weld from the factory either. You need to grind the old weld off of both pieces and then grind a bevel on the rod. I'd grind a bevel on one side and then another bevel 180 deg. to the first bevel. This will be the top and bottom to weld the pin eye on. You will get more weld length wise(across the top and bottom parallel with the pin) on the pin eye than than on sides(ends) of the pin eye. You can make the bevel deeper than the original to add additional weld for more strength. Don't go to far back with the bevel on the rod. You just want enough room to get the welding rod in there for good penetration. You don't want your weld repair to interfere with the barrel of the cylinder when it's retracted all the way. If you have reasonable welding skills, 7018 should be plenty strong enough. I wouldn't use MIG or even attempt the repair if you don't have enough welding experience. You don't want to be lifting something up and have it all of sudden come crashing down cause your weld wasn't strong enough. A couple passes will be stronger than 1 pass just don't let it get too hot. Go back and forth between the 2 cylinders. Once you have it ground and ready to weld, it would be a good idea to mount the pin eye onto the bucket/fork attachment and tack it in place real good. This will ensure that the pin will line up. After putting a couple good tacks, take the pin out and and rotate the cylinder rod so you can put a couple more tacks on the other side. Then you're ready to weld it. I'd turn the rod and weld the 2 ends first. This will hold it straight so you can grind the tacks out on one side to put a pass in the bevel. Once that side is done, turn the rod and grind the other tacks out and weld that side of the bevel. I would weld the ends on one cylinder, then do the ends on the other cylinder. Then I'd put the first pass in both bevels of the first cylinder and repeat on the second cylinder. This will give it enough time to cool off a little. Then do the final pass filling up the bevels. Let it cool on it's own. One other thing I should mention is to make sure you have a good ground for the welder. I'd hook the ground on the pin eye. You don't want any arcing on the cylinder rod. Hope I made sense. It's simple to think about but hard to type what you're thinking. Dave
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