I have a Daewoo Korando with similar hubs, so on the assumption that one Korean hub is like another, my bet is just a split vacuum tube.
So check all tubes from the hubs back to the solenoid valve (pay attention to any tee joints) & make sure all the rubbers are sound. If all OK, then
Next question: do you have vacuum at the output from the solenoid valve?
If not then check out the valve operation - try a light tap if its stuck etc. & see if the solenoid bit of it works or not. Is it getting power? There's loads of those type of vacuum solenoids on old Mercedes engines, so you should be able to get them from a breaker easily.
Pull off the tubes at each hub & check if you have vacuum at each.
Check the metal tubes where the rubber pipes attach to each hub. Check for corrosion, breaks & whether they are blocked or not.
If all is OK, but still no hub engagement, then the hubs are easy to dismantle (Google for Daewoo or Ssangyong Musso & Korando stuff). Basically the oil seal at the driveshaft side also has to seal the vacuum. If wheel bearings are sloppy, then the vac seal may be lost, so check & adjust if necessary. The outer side is sealed by a diaphragm arrangement & an O ring on the outer hub. You'll see all this as soon as you take the 6 bolts out. There is a nylon top hat type cap attached to the diaphragm that actuates the hub locking, (it's quite easy to work it out when you see it) Check that moves freely (may be a build up of old grease is stopping it) Don't use too much grease when reassembling or you may block the tube when the vacuum sucks.
It's an easy job to do & cheap to fix too - probably just need some new rubber pipe. If the metal pipes in the hub are broken, then it's a bit more involved - you'll need to drill & tap the hub & screw in some brake pipe or similar to receive the rubber tubing.
I can send you a PDF +pics of the =vacuum system if you need? (I can't see how to post a PDF to the forum)
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