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Re: Installing a AMP meter on tractor?


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Posted by jdemaris on December 31, 2010 at 07:08:43 from (67.142.130.26):

In Reply to: Re: Installing a AMP meter on tractor? posted by John T on December 30, 2010 at 19:29:05:

Unless I'm missing something, that is exactly what I already stated in slightly different words . .

"amp meter needs show how much charge current is actually charging the battery after all other demands are met"

As to wire size, 10 gauge wire is fine as long as it is protected. If somebody sticks on an alternator that can make 100 amps, and they've got 10 feet of 10 gauge wire hooked to it with no breaker protection, it can be a fire-hazard.
Much depends on the quality of the wire insulation, duration of high amps, and if open air or covered. Since tractors are often greasy and wires old, it's very easy to create a fire-hazard when adding an alternator.

It's also why many auto makers, when using amp-gauges, used shunt-wired units and NOT direct-read units. This cut back on the need for large wires in long runs.

I suspect some people don't realize the fire hazard potential and use 10 gauge wire since it's the largest many auto stores stock in small rolls. I doubt you'll ever find 10 gauge wire hooked up OEM on a car or truck alternator unless it's a tiny one. 4 to 8 gauge is more like it.

A Delco 10 SI or 12 SI can be capable of 100 amps.

Wire needs for a 10 foot "round trip" run. First number is wire ampacity and second number min. size with a 4% voltage drop.

100 amps = 0/6 gauge wire
75 amps = 2/8 gauge wire
60 amps = 4-8 gauge wire
30 amps = 8-12 gauge wire

4 gauge wire needs a 50-60 amp breaker.
6 gauge wire needs a 40-50 amp breaker.
8 gauge wire needs a 30-40 amp breaker
10 gauge wire needs a 20-30 amp breaker
12 gauge wire needs a 15-20 amp breaker


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