I always well least now do, replace the water pump, all the coolant hoses and heater control valve iff'in it has one,,, that lets me drain most of the coolant out,,, I go back with universal Gold,,, I buy it in bulk 50/50 mix....
I had a suburban that he ran hot shortly after I did the intake,,, killed the engine,,, Now, I had my hands all over that pump,,, should have knocked it off,,, the cost of a pump cost him $4500...
I have had Surburbans/taho's and such that shortly after a intake replacement the plastic heater valve feel apart are a hose went to leak'n,,, If the customer declines any of this I write a disclaimer on the invoice,,, Warranty only covers new parts I replaced...
If you reuse a old hose that had the continuous compression clamp they can B a bugger to reseal,,, none of the aftermarket hoses fit well,,, none....
I pick up the phone and order OEM hoses,,, folks squeal but that is the way it is...
If you have not put a radiator in it you soon will,,, more plastic 8) it seams if you fix one leak the next weakest link will go to leak'n... This is not a GM thang its across the board....
The most common leak is were a repair has not long been done,,, it will puke coolant during the warm up cycle then not leak another drop,,, its seams to always B that a old hose was used and leaks at the connection no matter what type of clap is used... Long winded I know but its not as EZ as it looks...
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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