Tom, I got a couple dozen cedar stumps to get down to ground level or lower so the hay can be cut. I've done a couple with a chain saw. Just have an extra chain and a good Ferd file or dremel with a grind stone. Just cut some cross hatch sections beginning in the middle using the end of the bar. Do the middle for a bunch of them and come back later to do the outer rings. Dirt dulls the chain fast. Only takes a few minutes to sharpen a chain right on the saw however. Cutting into the outer parts of the stump is where I usually begin hitting dirt so the more middles I cut while the chain is sharp, the better. I dig around the stump a little with a shovel to get at any big long roots.
Buying a designated stump chain and file is cheaper than a stump grinder. They say cedar stumps will eventually decompose but cutting out the middle and down a ways to get at the tap root makes it quicker and then get the outer edge and roots. Kinda learned the hard way that I need to cut them cedars before they get 2' or 3' tall before the trunks get so big. Seems like cedars have an inch or more of trunk diameter for every foot of height.
I've got a beaver blade (round blade with a chain saw chain attached to it) for the DR trimmer. It trims down stumps around the edge ok but doesn't really get them to ground level or lower. Last weekend, I put the beaver blade on the Ryobi string trimmer. It tended to bog the low CC engine down but mainly it would cut a little into a stump and then want to jump out. Guess it wasn't that fast and I value my toes too much. A saw blade would do the same thing. If I had something to brace the trimmer, I could make it work but then it made more sense just to put the blade back on the DR trimmer. The DR trimmer has a metal ball on the bottom which keeps the blade a couple inches above ground. It works for cutting tall stumps and small trees but still leaves a stump above ground.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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