Re: 1st Paint Job

Posted by Jerry B on May 14, 2001 at 09:34:03 from (162.114.24.109):

In Reply to: 1st Paint Job posted by Peter J on May 13, 2001 at 18:50:44:

Chemical stripping is the easist way of removing the paint, but it is the more costly way as well. There is availible in spray cans an aircraft grade stripper that is excellent. Cuts through everything. Before stripping, sand the paint with 36 grit paper to give the surface some texture. Scratch the area with a sharp knife to cut to the bottom of the paints to be removed. A closely spaced X pattern works well. The more scratches, the deeper the stripper can cut. Blow off the dust with air before applying the stipper. This is best done outdoors and in the shade as sun dries the paint stripper too quickly. Use an air hose to blow off the dried, stripped mess left behind.

You mention using a "primer-sealer" first. If you completely remove all the old paint you will only need a good grade of self ecthing primer. DuPont makes Vari-Prime, a 2 part etching primer that is as good as you can buy. If you intend to leave the old paint as a base you will only need a urethane primer before continuing.

When painting over old paint it must be completely cleaned and sanded. One advantage to painting over old paint is the reduced surface preparation needed before painting. It reduces the amount of primer needed to obtain a good smooth surface and reduced labor to get the surface even. Bare areas should be primed with an etching primer before other primers are used but it isn't absolutley necassary, just a good idea.

KEEP IN MIND PAINTING OVER OLD PAINT ONLY WORKS IF THE PAINT IS IN GOOD CONDITION. Fading isn't the problem. The problem lies in the type of paint, the method of application and the underlying body work, if any.

Old synthetic enamel should be removed as it is resistant to nothing and will not hold up even when buried under the newer, better top coats. Good quality acrylic enamel can be sanded and will make a good base over which to put your primer. Paint that has been applied with a brush or roller needs either complete removal or lots of blocking (sanding) to get an even surface to work with.

One word about primers.....Avoid laquer based primers even if you can get them. Sherman-Williams used to make the best laquer based primer money could buy, but I don't think you can get it anymore. It was the best for filling the grainy surface of cast iron.

Use DuPont URO primer if you can afford it. YES it is expensive. ($185 a gallon with activator and reducer) A cheaper alternative is Cumberland activated urethane primer. (about $100 with activator) I have been using Nason urethane primer latley. It was a DuPont competitor that DuPont bought out a few years ago because they were so good, and cutting into their profits. It cost about $100 with activator and reducer per gallon. All of these primers will dry in about 15-20 minutes depending on shop temp and mix temp. And they will not lift or react to underlying paints and nothing gets through them to affect the color coats either.

The best aspect of these primers is their ability to fill pourus surfaces like cast iron. DuPont URO has the highest grade and amount of solids of any of the new multi-stage primer-surfacers. It has a low amount of shrinkage. But quality cost money.

Mix only what you need and use it all once mixed. A trick we learned years ago was to keep the unused portion and the paint gun in the fridge to cool the mix and prevent drying. This works very well with the Nason primer I am using and is almost a neccesity when primer small parts or small areas.

As far as paints are concerned I personaly prefer DuPont. I have tried PPG and a few others but have not had very good luck with color hold out and life expectancey of the paint. On my Oliver 88 I am using Nason Full Urethane for the first time. The cost isn't as great as with other choices and the durability is supposed to be equal to more expensive urethane paints.

When using Urethane paints like Nason, and you choose to color sand and buff the finished coat, you had better do it 24 hours after it is painted. 48-72 hours after spraying it gets tough and hard. Too tough to sand and buff readily but it works well 1 day after painting.

For this reason, most people paint only one or two large panels at a time. This gives them time to sand and buff the finish without running into time constraints.

(1) Paint 2 panels. (2) Wait 1 day, color sand and buff them. (3) Clean up the shop area and paint 1 or 2 more panels. (4) Repeat steps 1-3 until done.

well okay..maybe a word or 10 about primers.

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