Interesting post because I was in the middle of the big switchover in the early 70s from leaded to unleaded and my last year in the service I bought a new 1970 Nova with the 307 engine and always used AMACO unleaded gas because it always burned clean at the exhaust then I traded it a couple years later for a 72 Sebring Satellite. Got a call one night from someone who bought my Nova and said it was having problems and took it to the dealer and said it needed a valve job because they said the previous owner used unleaded gas. I felt bad about it but the deal was already consumated I"ve always been gun shy about the issue until I found out the 307 was an Olds engine and had a multitude of problems. Back to the thread I have a 1970 MTD rototiller with a Briggs engine so I assumed I needed a lead additive so I was adding it and causing the EX valve to stick and old small engine friend of mine said loose the lead additive and you"ll be fine. You know what I did and it works fine. What I"m not smart enough to figure out is why it used and had oil smoke coming out the muffler when using the additive now without it the oil consumption has been drastically reduced. My two cents. CT
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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