Couple thoughts... You NEED it to be non-combustible. Not flame retardant or sort-of-won't-burn. Drywall's paper facing will burn. Fire rated drywall is meant to slow the fire spread from one area to another (various assemblies yield different hourly ratings) Wonderboard/Durock/cement backer baord like you use for underlayment of a tile floor can work and you can always tile it later for a better look Hardi panels. Made by James Hardi co. (there's other similar mfgs out there). These are fiber cement boards, relatively easy to cut, and paint up nice. In either option, I would advise light gauge metal stud framing behind it instead of wood studs. Last, make sure it's installed per code and mfgr. specs. and take pics as you install it. From what I've heard, an improperly installed system is an easy out for the insurance company to not cover anything after a fire. Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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