Posted by 440roadrunner on January 08, 2010 at 22:15:48 from (98.145.86.12):
In Reply to: setting valves posted by David G on January 08, 2010 at 11:20:10:
These "trick" procedures 'may' work on some stock engines with bone stock cams, but with ANY kind of performance grind, or even a "more modern" grind, the valve timing is different.
The other method mentioned above about when the opposite cylinder has both valves equally open is known as "split overlap" and THAT also does not apply with more modern, especially performance grinds.---That is, "split overlap" does not happen at TDC
THE ONLY sure way to set valves is the following, and it won't matter if you are working on a bone stock Chivvy 6 or a AA fuel dragster
You remember EO IC
What you do is, start at one end, and bump the engine until the EXHAUST valve just starts to open (EO) and SET THE INTAKE on that cylinder
Next, you bump the engine until the INTAKE comes clear open, and continue "a little" until it is ALMOST CLOSED --(IC), then SET THE EXHAUST on that cylinder.
What this method does is to make absolutely sure that the lifter/ tappet is resting on the round backside (base circle) of the camshaft
Just continue down the row, being careful, of course, to identify each intake / exhaust.
There is no need to use the messy method of setting valves when running.
I usually take the desired size feeler, and one about .002 bigger and use it for a "no go"
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