The debate on the screws on the ridge or in the valley:
I've done it both ways - couldn't force myself to put them in the valleys (or flats) for a long time. Finally tried it in the flats and liked it much better. No problems with leaks with either method, but I think it goes on quicker if screwed in the flats. The purlin is right under the metal - no flex, no slip off the ridge, and if the screw shooter is set right, no wrinkles in the metal. I set the screw by bumping the back of the shooter with the heel of my hand. Hard to do that on the ridge without the screw skipping off the side. The screw should go into the wood at least 1".
Just my experience - do it like you want to - it'll work either way.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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