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Re: truck brakes, what are we missing


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Posted by chevy hal on October 05, 2009 at 21:41:21 from (72.160.52.217):

In Reply to: truck brakes, what are we missing posted by moline_guy on October 02, 2009 at 17:35:10:


moline_guy said: (quoted from post at 17:35:10 10/02/09) Thanks for all the replies. We checked the vaccum hoses before putting on the new booster, their seemed to be good suction down by the booster. We primed up the master before hooking up the line and primed up the booster too, but we didnt use a power bleeder for bleeding, might have to borrow or steal one of those and see if that helps. :-). We might switch the front pads, on our 67 we ran them until they were gone, but we tried adjusting them up tighter today and there is no more adjustment on the front ones, so maybe we'll have to break down and put new ones on. Mostly just a silage truck and yes something newer and nicer would be nice, maybe next year.


The type of brake system on this truck is not as dificult to bleed if you are patient and follow the flow of fluid from the mastercylinder to the wheel cylinders. Pressure bleeders are nice but should not be needed on this system with mastercylinder seperate from the booster . you can get a hard pedal on this system and still have air in the first part of the booster cylinder. the brakes will apply but not have much effect. I run into this all the time and this is how I bleed the brake with two people.

1st remember not to pump the brake pedal to build pressure when trying to remove large amounts of air.( this only churns up the fluid). Start at the mastercylinder lines, open the loosen the line and have someone push the pedal down( close line ) let pedal return up and wait until the mastercylinder refills the plunger area of the cylinder.( this cant hapenn if you are pumping the pedal) continue until no more air bubbles come from lines. move to the next component ( should be the booster cylinder) at the point where the line enters the cylinder there may also be a bleeder screw.( some do not have this at this point where the line enters only at the line exiting the cylinder) this is the area that the air gets trapped and is most likely causeing you to pump a second time to get the booster to start applying. so the next step would be to crak this line entering the booster and push ( not pump) brake pedal down ( close line) let pedal up and let it recover for a few seconds before repeting. ( this is key when bleeding brakes, don't get in a hurry) continue to the outlet end of the booster cylinder in the same manner then to the wheel cylinders. This should remove all the air from the brake lines, booster and mastercylinder. I know this sounds like a lot of work but if you do it this way you can force the air out. How do I know? I just finished this procedure on two Internationals cabover trucks and a chevy C 65 . all three trucks were brought to me after they had boosters replaced. they all macthed the condition you described ( two pumps to get a good pedal, but not much brake aplication) If you try to push this air through the system ( even with a pressure bleeder) you will go through alot of fluid and still have trapped air in the booster. Start at the mastercylinder, then booster at entry point and exit point then at wheel cylinders. Why? the entry point of the booster is what actuates the booster and if it has even a small amount of air in it, you will have to give it a second pump before the booster will apply. If the brake shoes have any linning left the brakes should hold and stop the truck. But if you put new master cylinder and booster on Installing new brake shoes would be next and checking the wheel cylinders. they can suck air in and not leak fluid out. You can tell if you only get air out a certain wheel cylinder all the time. I know this is long but i hope it helps. Hal


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