Your mistake was to swap out the ignition without first confirming that you had an ignition problem. Now you don't know if you're dealing with your original problem, a new problem introduced by the electronic ignition, or both. First rule of troubleshooting is to always simplify and never add new unknowns to the problem if you can avoid it.
Based on your description, it sounds like you introduced a new problem. I'm not familiar with your electronic ignition, but with the breaker point ignition you need minus six volts to the negative coil terminal (referenced to ground), and the spark is generated by interrupting the connection from the positive coil terminal to ground. If this still holds true for your electronic ignition, you should be able to take the distributor completely out of the system by disconnecting it from the coil. Then take a jumper from the coil's positive terminal and touch it to ground, then remove it. If that doesn't give you a spark from the coil, then you have a very fundamental problem. Otherwise, go forward from there.
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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