I'd prefer tension rods to gain a bit of clearance. I'd use a wood preservative on your purlins as dairy barns are humid in the winter. I'm not a fan of pressure treated lumber for working with though.
Make sure you get stamped plans, there have been a lot of dairy barn collapses the last few years with the extra snow. Farm code allows weaker designs due to low occupancy but it doesn't cost that much to build for the 1/100 year snow vs 1/30 year or whatever the farm code uses.
If you do go truss, pay special attention to the bracing details. They really make a big difference in the truss strength and they are missed or don't get done right in most barns.
Spend some time planning your foundation carefully, it will affect your day to day operations a lot and you will be aware of your mistakes for a long time.
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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