Posted by smallblockhead on February 16, 2009 at 10:36:36 from (24.231.170.226):
In Reply to: spark plug removal posted by twomen on February 16, 2009 at 10:13:02:
If the plugs are in tight,run the engine up to operating tempature then carefully remove them. Watch the manifolds, they will be hot! Use a 5/8 deepwell 1/2 inch drive socket, extensions, swivel and ratchet to get them out, dont worry about breaking the insulaters off, you wont be re-using them! HOWEVER make sure your socket is square on the hex portion of the sparkplug body as you can twist off the hexed part of the plug leaving the threaded part stuck in the head if you place a lot of side load on a firmly stuck plug. I had that recently happen on a '92 chevy 350 truck and spent an extra hour using torches to affect a heat and cool cycle on the plug remnants until I was able to slowly extract it with an E-Z out(which beat the alternative- removing the head...). All the plugs on this engine are easily accessible, only the back 2 plugs are somewhat difficult to reach but shouldnt pose much of a problem. Get some new plugs(put them in with a 5/8 sparkplug socket- the one with the rubber donut inside to keep you from breaking the new plugs porcliean- in 3/8 drive- no sense in overtorquing them in)and use anti-seize goop on the threads! Put on some new wires, a cap & rotor and a new air filter on and you should be good for another 50K!!
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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