The knob on top activates a single cycle of the splitter. You can stop it by tapping the knob.
Just one thing. It looks like it works well in rather small, very straight grained wood.
In my part of the world, we deal with elm, box elder, cottonwood, maple, and other trees with some real issues. You need raw power to push through the grain.
This splitter 'pops' the wood. I understand the flywheel adds power, much as a baler plunger. BUT if the wood does not split apart on the first bite into it, the whole thing stops - belt slips. They say so burried in the description.
I think the rig would be worthless on the wood we need to split around me.
You only have so much power. They use mighty small engines - or even 110v electric. That is _not_ enough power to split ornery wood.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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