Posted by AmeriKen on November 29, 2008 at 16:04:31 from (69.135.186.208):
I have a wick type heater in my shop that I"ve used K1 kerosene for years. Historically, K1 has always been more expensive than other fuels, and I"m considering looking for something else. I"m told that #1 stove oil is dyed red, but is the same as clear K1. Also, in recent years with #1 ultra-low sulphur diesel now being the prominent diesel fuel, I have been told it is the same as K1 except it has the blue/green tint.
I"m wanting to get some kerosene for my shop heaters and also use it in my tractors. I"ve used a lot of K1 in my tractors by adding a little Cetone additive and 2 cycle oil.
Are there some gurus out there that can give advice as to how to run kerosene heaters and diesel tractors from the same fuel supply, and be economical. Although the #1 U/D diesel has road tax on it, would it be cheaper to use than K1 kerosene? I"ve seen that people on other sites use other than clear K1, but may have to put in new wicks about one per year. For $10-$15 per year per wick, this seems to be a cheaper alternative to using alternates to K1.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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