Ok first off Don't be suprised if the rebuilt booster is not bad, as i went thru this a couple months ago . BUT FIRST OFF why did you replace it??? ,because you had no pedal . With old juice brakes on OLD trucks better then half the time when ya think the booster is bad all ya need to do is ADJUST the brakes as that takes some getting use to doing correctly . The master cylinder only moves somuch fluid along with the booster and when ya start having to PUMP the brakes to get pedal then the brakes are out of adjustment and with most larger trucks with juice brakes there are TWO adjusters to each wheel . ANd each one has to be adjusted correctly . One also has to keep in mind that there is NO dual braking system on these old trucks and everything MUST be wright the first time . The best way to bleed these old trucks is with a power bleeder because here again the master cylinder and booster can only move somuch fluid and normaly it is not enough with the routing of the lines . But here again it all comes back to brake adjustment. One other thing you MUST also look at is the brake hoses from the steel lines to the rear axle and to the ft. wheels . It is not uncommon for them to collapes inside and stop the flow of brake fluid to that wheel or axle . This will dive you nuts tryen to fine the problem . So best to change them all as i your life along with somebody else's if your brake job fails.
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Today's Featured Article - The Rescue of a Fordson F - by Anthony West. Introduction I live in the UK and have for many years restored Fordson tractors (in the main model N's). I have also restored and shown model F's, E 27N's, Field Marshall Series 2, David Brown Cropmasters and the old rey Fergeson T 20. At one time I had seven restored examples which were shown and used in ploughing matches. As most restorers, I have a number of war stories I can relate on a range of topics that may help other like minded and interested people. Perhaps my first p
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