I'll have to plead ignorance here as to what exactly the Firecraters are. Do they boost compression? When I worked for Deere, we installed quite a few high-compression pistons that Deere sold as "High Altitude." We also used M&W high-compression pistons. With either of them, smoking was always more of an issue if the cylinder walls were not perfect. That's the way it works with any boost in compression. The higher the CR, the less tolerance for wear. We quit using them early 80s since rebuilt engines did not last as long with hard farm work and detonation with regular gas was one of the issues. It soon became a "non-issue" since most farmers went over to all diesel - except for light work like raking hay.
Back to break-in and new engines. If all the machine work is high-grade from the start - very little break-in is needed. From there, the more imperfections, the more break-in needed since the metal parts have to wear into each other until good sealing occurs. In some engines - that will never happen - especially if the cylinder-walls are tapered or scored - or the piston ring grooves are too wide.
With your engine - I don't know exactly what you did. If you did a good quality bore job - and the pistons are good - then there's no real time limit on the break in - ecxept . . . When parts break-in properly, wear almost slows down to a stop and friction is at a minimum. We've had engines that, instead of breaking in, wound up scuffing the cylinder-walls because the cross-hatch hone-marks were worn off before a protective glaze was created. The cross-hatch is needed to give oil a place to sit. You also might be burning oil through the valve guides - which would really show up when throttling down - rather than when powering up. If we had it at our shop - we'd tell you to beat on it like you're mad at it and see if it improves. We found that to break-in tractors we just rebuilt that lacked PTOs and could not be loaded on the dyno - we'd take them for a long ride on a long steep hill - going up. This gives you the ability to control the break-in load at different loads and RPMs without overloading the engine. Lug it down in a high gear a bit, then downshift, take the load off, and throttle it up. What I have witnessed on some fresh rebuilds that were not broken in properly - is scuffed and scored cylinder walls - and piston rings that "walked" around the pistons until all the gaps lined up.
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Today's Featured Article - Women and Tractors - More Views From the Farmer's Wife - by Teri Burkholder. The top ten reasons why the judges wouldn't let you participate in the stock antique tractor pull: Hey, this is stock! It came with that V8 in it! That "R" on my tires stands for "really old" not radial! Blue gas? We thought it was a pretty color! What wire hooked to my throttle?
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