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Tractor Talk Discussion Board

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Diesel Coolant Question


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Posted by Paul R, long winded on October 30, 1999 at 10:21:45 from (207.183.246.33):

In Reply to: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Diesel Coolant Question posted by Farm-Al on October 29, 1999 at 16:43:47:

Frank,
All advice has been good, using of course your own good sense. I know you said you don't have time but here's some info that might help when or if you do.
Best option would be to drain radiator, engine block(both sides) and the oil cooler(should have a petcock or plug) of water and then don't run it. If you have to run it leave the cap loose as advised by (I think) ltf and maybe add a good radiator sealer, though I don't like using them at all but have, and a good one may work for a while (I use Alumaseal, sometimes works for a while), but you might forget it needs to be fixed till you hurt your motor ($$$) even more.
If you have time to troubleshoot, you can remove radiator cap and start engine cold to check for big bubbles while idling, and maybe someone accelerating engine, indicates cumbustion chamber leak. I mention this because I don't recall you saying the water was very oily. If it's just colored grey it could be soot from combustion chamber leak or a radiator sealant.
A more telling test to find the leak, if you have an air supply, you can pressure the cooling system, for a few hours if necessary. You need a good air regulator with a good 30# guage. Regulate the pressure before hooking it up to tractor, to no more than 8psi, the pressure rating of your (correct) radiator cap would be better. You fill the cooling system with water and find a good place to attach regulated air supply {I usually modify a radiator cap by adding a coupler) and see if you can find a leak. If you cannot find it, let it sit pressurized overnight and see where the water goes to. If water goes to a cylinder you should not then crank engine with the starter but bar it over gently. Of course removal of injectors and (on "Detroit") air box covers from engine block would be wise, on a 2 cylinder Detroit with easy access to valve cover shouldn't take you more than 15 minutes, having some knowledge.
Well there's enough info to get yourself into really big trouble. If it's a "Detroit Diesel" they are real simple. If you have a mechanical background someone could educate you enough(verbally), probably in less than 15 minutes, to R&R injectors.
Any one please add to or correct this if I failed somewhre. Frank, let us know what you do or if want more "help".



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